In the early days, I used to write about damn near everything for the Welcomat,
the Philadelphia weekly where I got started. I wrote about books and movies
and punk rock and bums. I also wrote about the gallery scene even though I knew
nothing about art, and I wrote about modern classical music without knowing
anything about that, either. I wrote about an awful lot of things I knew absolutely
nothing about. That was okay–very few people ever called or questioned
me on it.
made sense, then, that after a few months my editor, Derek, would ask me to
write a restaurant column along with everything else. The paper, if I remember
correctly, already had two restaurant critics, so I only had to turn something
in every three weeks. That sounded fine. What sounded even better was the whole
idea of getting paid to eat in fancypants places. I was scraping by at the time,
and just barely, so the prospect of getting a decent meal–even just one
every three weeks–sounded pretty damn good.
a little catch to the deal, though. Since the two critics already working there
handled the hundreds of high-end eateries Philly had to offer, I was asked to
write about the places where real people ate–the diners and lunch counters,
the storefront cheese steak and fried fish operations, the red sauce joints
in South Philly and the 24-hour places. To cover my expenses, I’d be given
an extra $20 per review. (Derek had pushed for more, but the man who made the
money decisions was hardly the most generous of souls.)
hell, I figured. At least once every couple weeks I’d still be eating better
than I usually did, and if I played my cards right, I’d still have plenty
left over from that $20.
long and hard about where I might go first. Someplace that would at once allow
me to establish my credibility among the fraternity of restaurant critics, allow
me to explore a range of culinary delights and also allow me to be unusually,
I was still
in the midst of my "cruelty for cruelty’s sake" phase, see, protected
by the knowledge that nobody in Philly–with the exception of a few friends–had
any idea what I looked like. That offered me a tremendous amount of freedom
when it came to pretending to be a critic of this or that.
the first place I chose met all the above criteria. It was also open 24 hours
(always a plus), had a "cocktail lounge" tucked away in the back,
and was half a block from my apartment.
It was called
the Midtown IV. I don’t know how many Midtowns there were in Philly, but
there were a bunch, and each one was numbered (I think I saw a Midtown XI or
XII at one point). Although the floor plans were different at each location,
the menus were always exactly the same. Steaks, chops, chicken, sandwiches,
salads–none of it terribly fancy, and none of it terribly good. The meat
was rubbery, the chicken soggy, the salads usually little more than browning
iceberg lettuce with some grainy tomato slices on top. But it was real cheap,
I’ll grant them that. They catered mostly to an older, middle-class clientele
from the neighborhood’s retirement complexes.
the idea of the Midtowns. I just didn’t like eating there very much. Always
left feeling a little queasy. Sadly, leaving queasy after every visit is no
guarantee that I won’t keep going back to a place time and time again,
if I like the idea of it. I still do that.
So I went
to the Midtown at 3:30 a.m. on a Wednesday. A couple derelicts sat at the counter
drinking coffee and eating eggs. I took a booth, ordered a carafe of wine and
the veal. Veal, in general, is simply not something you want to eat at 3:30
in the morning. And at the Midtown, it was generally best to avoid the veal
I left about
an hour later feeling queasy, returned to my apartment and typed up a story.
I made fun
of the elderly, I made fun of the waitresses. I made fun of the decor. I wrote
slanderous exaggerations about the food. Then I turned it in.
ran, and almost within minutes the angry letters started arriving. Most all
of them called for an apology and my head.
told me later, "You can say what you want about politics, art, music, whatever
and no one will blink an eye. But you insult someone’s favorite restaurant,
hateful letters rolled in for weeks. Silly people. I was of an age and a mindset
that I just took it all as encouragement. Two weeks later I went out to another
restaurant and did exactly the same thing.
I knew nothing
about food. I couldn’t tell wines apart. I was blind to the art of presentation.
It didn’t matter. To my advantage, it didn’t matter much to the people
who ran the places I was eating at, either–or their customers. The thing
is, I didn’t even write well about food. My culinary vocabulary was extremely
limited. I could say if something was good, and I could say when something tasted
like cold shit, and that was about the extent of it. Subtlety wasn’t exactly
a complete asshole to every place I went. I liked Lee’s Fish and Steak–a
little storefront, family-owned take-out joint across the street from my apartment.
I loved Lee’s, actually. They fried everything there, and served it all
up in Styrofoam containers. I made a point of noting when a pizza place that
looked just like every other pizza place on the block had an unusually good
crust (very important). If a place had something going for it, I wouldn’t
besmirch them. Not too much, anyway.
though, I was just mean–and to be honest, despite what counterintuitive
common sense might say, most all these places were pretty crappy. But after
a review, I would find out loud and clear that, despite their crappiness, plenty
of people loved them.
ignore them most of the time, but did end up on the phone once with one restaurant
owner. This was strange–I thought my review had been extremely mild. She
felt differently, and informed me that I was "killing her children."
Yeah, whatever. If you ask me, though, if she couldn’t get a liquor license,
she had no right calling her place "Ouzo."
a year, I started to notice something about the restaurants I was reviewing.
It was becoming more and more difficult, I was finding, to write anything new
or interesting about these places. I finally figured out why while sitting in
a dim little Greek diner nestled under a bridge in North Philly.
is home to a world-renowned restaurant school. The people who graduate very
often go on to open up their own places right there in town. All of them are
different, all of them have some unique style to them, all of them are very,
very expensive and few of them last longer than a year or two. Often the places
I was eating at–like that Greek diner–had been around for decades.
Looking at the menu, I finally realized why.
90 percent of the places I went to (and not just the Midtowns), the menus were
exactly the same. I don’t just mean that they served hoagies, grinders,
cheese steaks and chops–they did, but that’s beside the point. No,
what I mean to say is, the menus themselves were exactly the same. The
same fonts, the same layout and of course the same food and prices as well.
All these places were working with a single menu. Probably a single supplier
as well. Hell, even the plates and the silverware were of the same design.
it would be difficult to write something new and interesting when, in essence,
I was reviewing the same restaurant every single time.
plenty of places in town, especially in South Philly, that were known mob joints.
The Melrose Diner, for instance. People were always getting shot in there. But
sitting in that Greek place under the bridge, my dim brain had finally latched
It was clear,
of course, that the Philly mob had their fingers in a lot of things around town,
but I had no idea until then that they had such an iron grip on the low-end
restaurant business. It made perfect sense–though these greasy spoons might
not have been too profitable individually, if you have a stake in damn near
every one of them (each with their own small but loyal clientele), it could
add up. If you control the suppliers, and the menu printers and the flatware
distributors, too, all the better.
back on it now, it becomes even more clear. I watched lots of places open up
while I was there. Small restaurants with everything going for them: location,
a unique menu, prices even cheaper than most. Yet inevitably they’d close
down under mysterious circumstances within a matter of months, while places
like the Midtowns would clearly be there forever.
I came to realize this, I never worried about any kind of retribution. I’m
pretty sure the mob had bigger things to worry about in those days. Plus, it
seems like my nasty reviews were only working to solidify–even increase–neighborhood
support for these salmonella factories.
moved up to Brooklyn, for obvious reasons, my days as a restaurant critic came
to an end, and I must admit being awfully relieved.
just out of curiosity, I checked, and sure enough, the Midtown IV is still there
on the 2000 block of Chestnut. If ever you’re in Philly, I suggest you
stop in and give it a try.