When Only a Dumpling Will Do

when an uptown girl gets a dumpling desire, she has to go downtown. however, with dumpling houses creeping north from chinatown, a girl doesn't have to go below canal. on st. marks place, i was more than delighted with dumpling man's filling little packets, made in northern chinese "shang jian" style.

sure, you can't get a chinatown deal of five dumplings for $1.25, but you can sit at the counter and watch your dumplings made, fresh to order, steamed or seared (six pieces /$4.50 to $5.50*). two ladies roll out the wrapper dough and pinch the stuffing inside.

i raise two chopsticks up for the pork and chicken dumplings-incredibly meaty and juicy, though almost indistinguishable-but nary a one for the veggie dumpling, filled with an acrid paste. each day there are "surprise" dumplings, and the veggie surprise was best of all, with glass noodles, woodsy shitake and leeks stuffed in a green spinach juice-dyed wrapper. the pork surprise featured crunchy water chestnuts and chinese parsley leavening the dense meat filling.

dumpling man's college-aged cashiers are super friendly and might convince you to order a dessert "snow": fun to watch a block of ice ground to "snow" by a taiwanese contraption, but the ultimate confection was too sweet and syrupy for me.

*monday through friday you get five pork or chicken dumplings and a soda for only $3.50! -- dumpling man 100 st. marks place, #b (near first avenue) 212-505-2121

got a snack attack to share? contact nbrand@aol.com