THE NOSE KNOWS

Inhaling the heady mix of yeast, spices, coffee and herbs in Silver Moon Bakery, it is impossible not to break into a goofy smile. On Mondays, the bakery is particularly fragrant due to the creation of its za'atar pita ($4), a specialty bread. Available only on Mondays, this sourdough pita is covered with a thick mixture of za'atar, a medieval Mid-Eastern herbal mix containing tangy sumac, caramelized onion, toasted sesame and pulverized oregano, cumin, thyme and marjoram, all fastened to the pita with a helluva lot of olive oil. Running errands with two pitas in my tote bag, I couldn't help notice noses twitching with interest in my direction. While the pita bread is a bit heavy, warming it in your oven softens it and increases the za'atar's intensity. Moving from Lebanon to Bavaria: the nose-twitching phenomenon is the only reason people buy utterly bland and doughy pretzels off carts in this city. They're suckered in by the smell of char. Those who crave soft pretzels should buy Silver Moon's Bavarian pretzel ($1.95) instead. It's slightly crunchy on the outside, soft and spongy on the inside, with a delicate salty flavor that permeates through. -- Silver Moon Bakery 2740 Broadway (at 105th Street) 212-866-4717 -- Got a snack attack to share? Contact [NBrand@aol.com](mailto:NBrand@aol.com)