By Megan McGibney

It is said the world’s three greatest cuisines are French, Chinese and Turkish. While Downtown has plenty of the first two, it could use more of the latter.

Luckily, Soho is set to get a Turkish eatery of its very own Nov. 15, when the Midtown hotspot Pera Mediterranean Brasserie opens its Downtown version: Pera SoHo. The award-winning restaurant known for its elegant décor and softly lit dining rooms intends to provide this fashion-centric district with some of Turkey’s finest cultural dishes.

“I think it’s proven to be a great concept,” said owner Burak Karacam of his eateries. “Whether it’s the décor or the music that’s soft to people’s ears, it’s a very refreshing take on eastern Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine.”

Karacam hails from the country’s capitol, and the restaurants derive their name from one of Istanbul’s more eclectic neighborhoods. Since the 17th century, the place has been home to many non-Islamic cultures, including Italian, Greek, Jewish, Armenian and French. It was in Pera that these groups resided and set up their businesses, and it is at Karacam’s restaurants that a blend of eastern Mediterranean cuisine comes to life.

Pera’s menu mainly consists of Mediterranean staples like olive oil, zucchini, eggplant, beans, seafood and lamb. Dessert fans may mourn the lack of cake, but will rejoice at Pera’s selection of puddings and baklava.

Pera SoHo,designed by DYAMI architects with décor overseen by Karacam himself, will include a lounge area up front with a doorway leading to a garden, which will be open to patrons beginning in April. In addition, during the warmer months, private parties can go to the rooftop and watch the sun set before going downstairs to sup in a dining room that can seat 105. Karacam chose 54 Thompson Pl. for Pera SoHo because of the lack of neighboring tall buildings and the chance to be on the cutting edge of dining habits.

“I think Soho is making a comeback in terms of dining,” he said.

When it comes to making Pera SoHo different from its Midtown relative, Karacam is contemplating whether to make a quarter or a third of its menu different. The Downtown kitchen will be headed by the Turkish/American duo of Metin Calisir and Nathan Crouser.

As for the possibility of more Peras, Karacam said, “It’s not something we are against, but currently the focus is on getting this one up and running and reaching its potential.” After that, Karacam will look around for a new place for New Yorkers to experience one of the world’s greatest cuisines.

Istanbul native Burak Karacam in front of his yet to be opened Pera SoHo. phOTO BY Megan McGibney. Pera’s Downtown location will be similar to its uptown haunt, located on Madison Avenue. PHOTO courtsey of Pera Mediterranean Brasserie

I first visited shortly after they opened and had a great time, most notably gorging on the fantastic, steaming, chewy bread served with our meal. Last month, I brought my uncle Ray, visiting from Germany, and two local friends, D.L. and Joe, to see if they would be equally enchanted.

Peri Ela: dark, cozy and serving up stellar lamb.

We sat down at a table near the open windows, but the staff didn’t notice they’d only given us two menus. I finally had to get up and request two more when it appeared that no one was coming over. This, as it turned out, was fairly representative of the pleasant but somewhat inattentive employees. While we deliberated at length over what appetizers to choose, the four of us dug in to the bread and olives. Disappointingly, the bread, though fresh and flavorful, was cold.

To accompany the bread, which we were working through fast, we started with the humus ($7), tarama (carp roe caviar spread, $7) and the grilled octopus salad ($14). We thought the humus was good but ordinary and loved the abundant, salty spread. But the biggest hit was my salad, which impressed Joe more than anything else. He thought the plentiful calamari were very tender and fresh, with a smoky taste. He wanted more vegetables, but I thought it had a good balance.

D.L. stuck with appetizers and had two glasses of pinot grigio ($9). Before the three of us decided on entrees, we also asked for yet more bread, which happily, at last, came back hot and as delicious as I’d hoped. Ray ordered from the summer menu and picked the islim kebab ($24), a slowly baked lamb shank wrapped in sliced eggplant. Joe chose the kofte (char-grilled lamb seasoned with Turkish spices, $18) and I selected the lamb shish kebab ($22), which, like Joe’s, came with potatoes and rice pilav. Ray thought his lamb was “beautiful: as good as anything I’ve had in Germany. This is how we make it there.” Joe was underwhelmed by his dish, thinking mine better, but thought the hot green chili “unified” the elements on his plate and gave it needed flavor. I prefer lamb that is simply prepared and found it to be beautifully grilled and minimally spiced, requiring nothing more. Alas, after all of the bread, we were far too full for dessert.

My dining companions were mixed on the experience, saying the place made for a good neighborhood destination, but it was dark and the food overpriced. I, on the other hand, thought the cost was appropriate for the area and only slightly more than downtown Turkish restaurants. Locals are lucky to have a cozy spot in their backyard and such lovingly prepared food.

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Peri Ela
1361 Lexington Ave.
(at 90th Street)
212-410-4300
Entrees: $17 to $25