Anyone who knows me knows that I cheer for the underdog—especially when it comes to wine. And when I was a wine director, I would often try to convince patrons to branch out and try something new. Some people called my methods sneaky. I argue that I was just giving them an unsolicited experience.

“Mmm,” the woman at table 10 cooed, “This is the best North Fork chardonnay I’ve ever had.”

“It’s better than that,” I replied, “because it’s not even from the North Fork.”

“Where is it from?”

“Seneca Lake,” I clipped back at her. “Upstate New York.”

I only got in trouble for my little trick once. But it was worth it!

Grapes for winemaking have been grown in the Finger Lakes area of Upstate New York for over 100 years. That’s decades longer than the Russian River or Napa Valley. The white wines from the Finger Lakes are exceptionally underrated and always have been; not like the wines from the North Fork of Long Island, which are, for some reason, much more popular and expensive.

There are a handful of Long Island wines that are good, but there isn’t the consistency of quality that you’ll find with the whites from Upstate.

And it really just boils down to one thing: experience. Those vineyards on the North Fork were potato fields only a handful of years ago. I suppose it’s kind of cool that you can drive by P. Diddy’s mansion and a vineyard full of cabernet franc within the same 45 minutes, but is it worth the price tag?

In my opinion, no, it is not. That is why I am placing on their rightful pedestal the white wines of New York’s Finger Lakes. They are delicious, of a consistent high quality and very inexpensive.

One of the pioneers of the Finger Lakes growing area was Dr. Konstantin Frank. He was the first viticulturist to make a real impact in the area, and the wines from the vineyard he started still bear his name today. The Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling 2010 ($18.99 at Gotham Wines and Liquors, 2517 Broadway at 94th St., 212-932-0990, gothamwines.com) is a stellar example of a classic Finger Lakes-style riesling. As the name suggests, it does have a touch of residual sweetness on the finish, but the natural acidity of the riesling grape counters that nicely. It is a refreshing wine, full of easy to enjoy apricot and orange flavors, and is just as good by itself as it is paired with something spicy like pad Thai.

Another local gem from the Seneca Lake area is the Lamareaux Landing Chardonnay 2010 ($14.99 at America‘s Wine Shop, 398 3rd Ave. at 28th St., 800-865-0982, americaswineshop.com). This is an excellent and less expensive alternative to a typical oaky California-style chardonnay. The Lamareaux Landing has a touch of oak flavor, but doesn’t make it the main event. Instead, the wine focuses on peach and tropical fruit flavor notes, making the oak taste a subtle backdrop. This is a serious enough chardonnay to stand up to lobster tail with drawn butter, but is also fruity enough to be sipped all by itself.

I know I said I was going to focus on white wines from Upstate New York, but one of my absolute favorites from the area is actually a rosé. Chateau Lafayette Reneau Pinot Noir Blanc 2010 ($10.99 at Garnet Wines and Liquors, 929 Lexington Ave. at 68th St., 212-772-3212, garnetwine.com) is a rare treat that the folks from Chateau Lafayette Reneau make only a handful of times a decade. If the pinot noir crop yields are high enough, the extra that isn’t used to make their regular pinot noir is made into a light pink, strawberry-laden nectar. Dancing just on the edge of semi-dry, the pinot noir grape gives this deceptively complex summer sipper a boatload of ripe, red fruit and a kick of citrus to balance the whole package out on the finish. Buy it by the case!

So the next time you want to take in the bounty that New York State has to offer, head due north instead of east. The real estate is cheaper and the wine is more delicious.

The majority of our vineyards are concentrated on Long Island’s North Fork—a drive out to Orient Point showcases acres of picturesque grapes, all neatly kept and awaiting transformation into a local favorite. But the South Fork’s wineries and vineyards, set against the jaw-dropping Hamptons landscape, are equally popular among those looking to infuse an evening with Long Island flavors.

The first Long Island winery was established in the early 1970s; since then, the region has gained a solid reputation for producing fine wines in virtually every variety. According to the Long Island Wine Council, East End grapes thrive because of the maritime climate, moderate temperatures, fertile soil and long growing season. The most popular reds include merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, while white wine lovers are inclined to flock toward the Long Island chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and riesling. A Long Island rosé also pairs perfectly with a hot summer night.
Fortunately for the discerning wine connoisseur, the varieties and flavors of an East End wine span a broad range of tastes and finishes. Below is a brief sampling of Long Island’s wineries and vineyards. Many offer tours and tastings. Be sure to refer to Dan’s Papers or www.danshamptons.com for more comprehensive information on Long Island’s wines and details on summer entertainment and live music schedules.

Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard (631-369-0100, baitinghollowfarmvineyard.com) in Baiting Hollow offers such wines as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and reisling. A selection of Baiting Hollow’s wines is devoted to the vineyard’s horse rescue efforts.

Comtesse Therese (631-779-2800, comtessetherese.com) in Aquebogue’s wines include sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, rosé, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Comtesse Therese is the only vineyard restaurant on Long Island, and the Bistro serves Comtesse Therese wines and dishes created from a variety of locally-sourced ingredients.

The Lenz Winery (631-734-6010, lenzwine.com) in Peconic was founded in 1978 and is one of the oldest wineries in the region. Varieties produced include chardonnay, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, gewürztraminer and merlot.

Peconic Bay Winery (631-734-7361, peconicbaywinery.com) in Cutchogue produces such wines as riesling, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petit and sauvignon blanc. In addition, Peconic Bay Winery’s Sono Rinata Immature Grape Brandy was the first brandy to be produced on Long Island.

Roanoke Vineyards (631-727-4161, roanokevineyards.com) in Riverhead specializes in such wines as cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. This summer, check out their second tasting room on Love Lane in Mattituck.

Sherwood House Vineyards (631-779-2817, sherwoodhousevineyards.com) in Jamesport and Mattituck has chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot wines. The 2008 chardonnay was awarded “Best in Class” at the 2011 Los Angeles International Wine Competition

Vineyard 48 (631-734-5200, vineyard48wines.com) in Cutchogue offers chardonnay, riesling, cabernet franc and merlot, among others. Be sure to check out the vineyard’s Saturday Dance Parties, which will showcase a variety of music and the vineyard’s famous frozen sangria.

Too many wineries and vineyards to choose from? Check out the North Fork Trolley Co. (northforktrolley.com) for information on winery tours.

LONG ISLAND SUSTAINABLE WINEGROWING
Formed on Earth Day 2012, Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing (LISW) does away with vague notions of “sustainability,” as the organization provides vineyards with official recognition for agricultural practices that are modeled after international standards of sustainable production. LISW has four founding members —Bedell Cellars, Channing Daughters Winery, Martha Clara Vineyards and Shinn Estate Vineyards—each of whom are committed to bringing a clear definition of sustainability to Long Island Wine County. LISW seeks to develop a certification program for the use of sustainable farming practices in growing grapes, as they foster a community between the vineyards, the workers and the land. A not-for-profit organization, LISW will ensure the agricultural use of these beautiful lands for many more generations.
www.lisustainablewine.org