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	<title>NYPress.com - New York&#039;s essential guide to culture, arts, politics, news and more &#187; Italian</title>
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	<description>New York&#039;s essential guide to culture, arts, politics, news and more</description>
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		<title>Anna Karenina Comes to New York City</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/anna-karenina-comes-to-new-york-city/</link>
		<comments>http://nypress.com/anna-karenina-comes-to-new-york-city/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:39:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Regan Hofmann</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Dining Our Town]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining west side spirit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[West Side Spirit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Anna Karenina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chef Paul Joseph]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chicago]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[FireBird]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hungarian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Midwestern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Russian food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[southern food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Theater District]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nypress.com/?p=60709</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[FireBird navigates the frozen tundra of the Theater District “There is no such thing as Russian food,” says FireBird executive chef Paul Joseph. And while there are entire neighborhoods in Brooklyn that would take jingoistic offense at such a suggestion, over the course of a meal at FireBird (365 W. 46th St.; firebirdrestaurant.com), this starts ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em><a href="http://nypress.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Dining-Image.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-60710" title="Dining Image" src="http://nypress.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Dining-Image.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="200" /></a>FireBird navigates the frozen tundra of the Theater District</em></p>
<p>“There is no such thing as Russian food,” says FireBird executive chef Paul Joseph. And while there are entire neighborhoods in Brooklyn that would take jingoistic offense at such a suggestion, over the course of a meal at FireBird (365 W. 46th St.; firebirdrestaurant.com), this starts to make a sort of existential sense. There is no Russian food; everything is Russian food. There is no Matrix; we are so deep within the Matrix we can no longer see it.</p>
<p>Or, more plainly, there is no Russian food in the same way there is no American food, and to write a menu of such would by necessity include dishes that are actually Southern and Midwestern, or of Italian or Hungarian origin. With a few exceptions, the foods we love are sloppily borrowed from other traditions, while the ones we can claim to have originated are fiercely regionalized (try putting a hot dog on that menu and just wait for the New Yorkers and the Chicagoans to start the next civil war).</p>
<p>But while our culinary history is one of the poor, the tired, the huddled masses bringing their mom’s recipes west to be misinterpreted for the next three or four generations, the Russians did this cultural appropriation dance with style. OK, style and a hearty dose of the old iron fist: When they weren’t copying the grand style of the French, the tsars were taking an interest in the cuisine of their neighbors by invading and forcing some poor serf to keep cooking it for them.</p>
<p>Style is where FireBird excels. If you’ve ever walked the side streets west of Times Square and lamented the number of beautiful old townhouses turned rather unceremoniously into restaurants, FireBird will set those doubts to rest permanently. With grand, curtained doorways and plush, padded banquettes providing an air of opulent coziness even when empty tables outnumber the occupied, there is no way the restaurant could exist anywhere else. It is a warren of these rooms, each encrusted with ancient daguerreotypes of men in fur coats, paintings of wintry street scenes, sepia-faded books and glass-enclosed suits of clothing, culminating in a parlor stuffed with settees situated around a fireplace under a grand crystal chandelier, marble busts looming.</p>
<p>The menu is similarly lavishly appointed, with less clear results. Succumbing to trend, every ingredient in every dish is listed along with its provenance, whether local from the Hudson Valley, as the wild boar, or Armenian, as the lamb. While it makes for interesting reading, it is only occasionally useful. Do we need to be told what a kulebiaka is (it’s a thrillingly Old World dish of puff pastry enclosing salmon, mushrooms and rice)? Absolutely. Do we gain anything from the knowledge that the chicken Kiev comes with a rocambole garlic sauce, which, it can only be presumed, was the demi-glace-ish pool in the bottom of the unwieldy bowl in which the cutlet is balanced? Not particularly.</p>
<p>The dishes that sing best are those left in their natural state. The menu begins with a page of caviars served with blini and “traditional accompaniments,” and if budget allows, they are a necessity, along with any selection from the two-page spread of the vodka list. There are a number of salads that illustrate the European fascination with mayonnaise; the best of these is the Olivier, which combines cubed carrots, cornichons, kielbasa and potatoes to bizarrely tasty effect. It’s served on top of a thin black bread toast and topped with a beautifully poached quail egg, and it tastes of hardship and luxury all at once, like it originated in an isolated palace on the frozen steppes.<br />
While there may not be any such thing as Russian food, there is a Russian attitude: oversized, gilt-edged, slightly out of touch, proud. Too many restaurants in New York manage only to capture a few of these contradictory impulses; by these standards, FireBird is the most Russian restaurant in New York.</p>
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		<title>Dopo Teatro East: Authentic Italian on 62nd Street</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/dopo-teatro-east-authentic-italian-on-62nd-street/</link>
		<comments>http://nypress.com/dopo-teatro-east-authentic-italian-on-62nd-street/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Aug 2012 02:41:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>NY Press</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Dining Our Town]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining west side spirit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Our Town]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[West Side Spirit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dopo Teatro East]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eat and drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nypress.com/?p=54665</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By Amanda Woods With so many Italian eateries in New York City, it can be difficult to find an “authentic” one—offering 100 percent home-cooked food and an ambience that transports diners to Italy, if only for an hour or two. Dopo Teatro East, which opened on East 62nd Street between First and Second avenues at ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://nypress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Dining-sea-bass.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-54666" title="Dining-sea bass" src="http://nypress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Dining-sea-bass.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="224" /></a>By Amanda Woods</p>
<p>With so many Italian eateries in New York City, it can be difficult to find an “authentic” one—offering 100 percent home-cooked food and an ambience that transports diners to Italy, if only for an hour or two. Dopo Teatro East, which opened on East 62nd Street between First and Second avenues at the end of June, does just that.</p>
<p>Diners are greeted with a “buona sera” as they enter the front of the restaurant, where they find a bar stocked with drinks to complement the restaurant’s dishes. An ornate—yet not gaudy—chandelier with small crystals hanging from it adds to the sophisticated character of the setting.</p>
<p>The manager, Albi Mecaj, and the chef, the Italian-born Salvatore DiBella, are very attentive to diners and help them to pick the exact kind of meal they are looking for, from the main course to the beverage to the dessert.</p>
<p>“You have to offer 100 percent,” Mecaj said. “While you’re in the restaurant, everything has to be constant, from the beginning to the end. And the perfect example that I always give when I train my employees, I tell them, ‘Picture this as a show, as a theater show. The moment the curtains open, the show starts, and there is no way you can [make] a mistake and come back, because it’s live.’”</p>
<p>In the short time the restaurant has been open, it has already attracted regulars, and it’s no surprise after tasting some of the most popular dishes.</p>
<p>My first plate, filled with seafood, offered an eclectic but savory combination of flavors. The grilled vegetables mixed with grilled calamari and grilled scampi was rich with flavor, and the balsamic reduction dressing drizzled over the top added an additional punch. The yellowfin tuna medallions, served with olives, capers, thyme and aged balsamic reduction, is a must-try for seafood lovers—it had a distinctive, yet not overwhelming taste. I also tried thinly sliced salmon over fresh fennel, which was light and refreshing.</p>
<p>The pasta samplings were equally satisfying. The large tube pasta with eggplant, salted ricotta, tomato sauce, garlic and basil was perfectly prepared—each item in the dish had a distinctive taste. The ravioli filled with buffalo mozzarella, butter and sage was also a delight—once I cut into the ravioli, I found that the mozzarella was a perfect consistency—soft, but not greasy or too stringy. The sage was a nice touch, and had that melt-in-your-mouth quality. Mecaj said the ravioli filled with shrimp in lobster reduction is his favorite pasta dish served at the restaurant—and I agree. The fish and pasta complement each other in both flavor and texture, and no grated cheese or any additional flavoring is necessary on this dish.</p>
<p>I also tried a plate of pan-seared sea bass with prawn, Prosecco reduction, cherry tomatoes and capers. The sea bass was light and delicious, and the cherry tomatoes and capers also added some welcome flavor.</p>
<p>A glass of sparkling Prosecco wine made these dishes all the better—and especially worked well with the flavors of the fish. Toward the end of the meal, I tried one of the restaurant’s top red wines, which was slightly stronger, and also a well-selected complement.</p>
<p>The dessert, called semifreddo, with gelato, small nuts, strawberries on the side, and a generous amount of chocolate syrup poured around the plate, was satisfyingly sweet, and had a cooling-down effect on a scorching August evening.</p>
<p>Dan Bolton, a jazz pianist, played throughout the evening, blending well with casual conversation, the chef’s Italian, and the sounds of knives and forks at work.</p>
<p>A garden in the back, designed by Mecaj—is immediately inviting. Lanterns of various colors and designs hang from the ceiling. Restaurant staff hopes to soon place tables and chairs in that area.</p>
<p>Dopo Teatro has another location near Times Square on West 44th Street between Seventh Avenue and the Avenue of the Americas. That location attracts more of a tourist crowd, and the Upper East Side opening was an effort to branch out, Mecaj said.</p>
<p>Restaurant prices range from $10 to $14 for salads, $14 to $19 for antipasti, $16 to $20 for pasta, $27 to $30 for fish, $22 to $32 for meat, $7 to $9 for vegetables, and $14 to $18 for pizza pies—another restaurant specialty.<br />
Dopo Teatro East: 345 E. 62nd St., New York, NY 10065</p>
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		<title>Soho to Get a Bite of Midtown Turkish Delight</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/soho-bite-midtown-turkish-delight/</link>
		<comments>http://nypress.com/soho-bite-midtown-turkish-delight/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Nov 2011 20:14:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Armenian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Burak Karacam]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chinese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[downtown]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Greek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Islamic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Istanbul]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pera SoHo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[SoHo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turkish]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Popular eastern Mediterranean restaurant to open branch in November By Megan McGibney It is said the world’s three greatest cuisines are French, Chinese and Turkish. While Downtown has plenty of the first two, it could use more of the latter. Luckily, Soho is set to get a Turkish eatery of its very own Nov. 15, ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Popular eastern Mediterranean restaurant to open branch in November</strong></p>
<p>By <a href="http://nypress.com?s=Megan+McGibney">Megan McGibney</a></p>
<p>It is said the world’s three greatest cuisines are French, Chinese and Turkish. While Downtown has plenty of the first two, it could use more of the latter.</p>
<p>Luckily, Soho is set to get a Turkish eatery of its very own Nov. 15, when the Midtown hotspot Pera Mediterranean Brasserie opens its Downtown version: Pera SoHo. The award-winning restaurant known for its elegant décor and softly lit dining rooms intends to provide this fashion-centric district with some of Turkey’s finest cultural dishes.</p>
<p>“I think it’s proven to be a great concept,” said owner Burak Karacam of his eateries. “Whether it’s the décor or the music that’s soft to people’s ears, it’s a very refreshing take on eastern Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine.”</p>
<p><img class="alignright" src="http://nypress.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/istanbul.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" />Karacam hails from the country’s capitol, and the restaurants derive their name from one of Istanbul’s more eclectic neighborhoods. Since the 17th century, the place has been home to many non-Islamic cultures, including Italian, Greek, Jewish, Armenian and French. It was in Pera that these groups resided and set up their businesses, and it is at Karacam’s restaurants that a blend of eastern Mediterranean cuisine comes to life.</p>
<p>Pera’s menu mainly consists of Mediterranean staples like olive oil, zucchini, eggplant, beans, seafood and lamb. Dessert fans may mourn the lack of cake, but will rejoice at Pera’s selection of puddings and baklava.</p>
<p>Pera SoHo,designed by DYAMI architects with décor overseen by Karacam himself, will include a lounge area up front with a doorway leading to a garden, which will be open to patrons beginning in April. In addition, during the warmer months, private parties can go to the rooftop and watch the sun set before going downstairs to sup in a dining room that can seat 105. Karacam chose 54 Thompson Pl. for Pera SoHo because of the lack of neighboring tall buildings and the chance to be on the cutting edge of dining habits.</p>
<p>“I think Soho is making a comeback in terms of dining,” he said.</p>
<p>When it comes to making Pera SoHo different from its Midtown relative, Karacam is contemplating whether to make a quarter or a third of its menu different. The Downtown kitchen will be headed by the Turkish/American duo of Metin Calisir and Nathan Crouser.</p>
<p>As for the possibility of more Peras, Karacam said, “It’s not something we are against, but currently the focus is on getting this one up and running and reaching its potential.” After that, Karacam will look around for a new place for New Yorkers to experience one of the world’s greatest cuisines.</p>
<h6>Istanbul native Burak Karacam in front of his yet to be opened Pera SoHo. phOTO BY Megan McGibney. Pera’s Downtown location will be similar to its uptown haunt, located on Madison Avenue. PHOTO courtsey of Pera Mediterranean Brasserie</h6>
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		<title>Walker’s Eatery Takes  a Walk in Italian in Tribeca</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/walkers-takes-walk-italian/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Oct 2011 20:42:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gerard Walker]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Girello]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Heineken]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hurricane Irene]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[manhattan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Martin Sheridan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[N. Moore Street]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New York City]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ommegang Witte]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Our Town Downtown]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[P.E.I.]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Penny Grey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peroni]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Scott Perez]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tribeca]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Varick Street]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Victory Hop Devil IPA]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Walker's]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[By Penny Grey The owners of Walker’s, Tribeca’s favorite neighborhood eatery at the corner of North Moore and Varick streets, are rolling out an Italian alternative to their American fare next door at the new pizzeria Girello (“Walker” in Italian, posing a potential confusion for the multilingual). “This is a real departure for us,” said ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By <a href="http://nypress.com?s=Penny+Grey">Penny Grey</a></p>
<p>The owners of Walker’s, Tribeca’s favorite neighborhood eatery at the corner of North Moore and Varick streets, are rolling out an Italian alternative to their American fare next door at the new pizzeria Girello (“Walker” in Italian, posing a potential confusion for the multilingual).</p>
<p>“This is a real departure for us,” said Gerard Walker, co-owner of the eponymous restaurant. “We’ve been the neighborhood regular for the last 30 years, so we decided it was time to become the neighborhood Neapolitan thin-crust pizza joint as well. We love the idea of evoking the same warmth with varying cuisines—that’s why we created Girello.”</p>
<p>Whereas Walker’s has all of the ambiance of a nostalgic American saloon, Girello has been decorated with a decidedly European feel—it looks like a simple, clean trattoria in a fading southern Italian town. “We had the option of expanding Walker’s into the space,” co-owner Scott Perez said, “but we thought it’d be fun to create the same sort of friendly environment using superior products, just different flavors.”</p>
<p>Walker and his partners, Perez and Martin Sheridan, first opened Walker’s three decades ago and have enjoyed steady, prosperous business there ever since. The secret to their success? “Err on the side of the customer,” Walker confided. “New York restaurant customers are the best in the world. If you treat them well and serve them quality food, they’ll return. Never ever take them for granted.”</p>
<p>Walker says it’s the customers who keep him in the business. “I have the opportunity every single day to make somebody’s night special. A customer I haven’t seen in a while will come in, and I’ll say, ‘Where ya been?’ And he’ll look at me like he can’t believe anybody would remember him. You make someone’s day like that. How many people get to show up to work and do that?”</p>
<p>Perez is quick to add that it’s not just the customers that keep Walker’s (and soon Girello) in business, it’s also the staff. “There’s such a joy and an instant gratification in working with people who understand how to treat customers well,” he said.  When the restaurant was the only spot in the neighborhood that remained open during Hurricane Irene, both men agreed it was the combined goodwill of the staff and customers that made the experience such an enriching one.</p>
<p>Girello may have missed the hurricane, but the new restaurant has not been without its own complications. The toughest aspect of opening the new joint? “Perfecting the dough,” Walker said. “For water, yeast and flour, there’s a lot that can go wrong before you get it right. We actually had emails from chefs all over the city writing in about ‘dough behaviors.’ Luckily, we mastered it. We mastered the dough.”</p>
<p>And dough there is in abundance. With nearly 30 toppings to choose from and the choice of either a margherita or white base, Girello is the controlling pizza-topper’s dream. When pressed for a favorite combination of flavors, both Perez and Walker are without answers. “Nah,” Perez said. “It’s all good. It all comes from the same dough, right?”</p>
<p>Also on offer are a handful of Italian and Italian-American sandwiches (including the New Orleans-style muffuletta), salads and appetizers; look out especially for the pancetta wrapped shrimp and the oven roasted P.E.I. mussels. And in true Walker’s style, Girello offers plenty of alcohol to wash down a meal—a selection of Italian wines and a more international choice of beer, including Peroni and Heineken, along with specialty brews like Victory Hop Devil IPA and Ommegang Witte.</p>
<p>“It’s all just been a lot of fun,” Walker said with a glow. “Opening Girello now has reminded me of what it felt like to open Walker’s all those years ago—makes me feel like a young man again. Maybe that’s what we mean when we say Walker’s is the sort of place that makes the old feel young and the young feel like they’ve been there forever. Judging by the way I feel, Girello is following that tradition.”</p>
<p>Girello, 16 N. Moore St. (betw. N. Moore &amp; Varick Sts.), 212-941-0109; 11 a.m.–11 p.m.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Stuck on Stecchino</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/stuck-on-stecchino/</link>
		<comments>http://nypress.com/stuck-on-stecchino/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 17:01:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stecchino]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://westsidespirit.com/?p=4517</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Stecchino is Italian for “toothpick,” and while nothing on the menu includes these little wooden sticks, you will definitely need one after your meal. Especially if the soup of the day is red onion ($6), a luscious, Italian version of French onion soup with a strong burst of oregano. Every day the homemade soup changes, ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Stecchino is Italian for “toothpick,” and while nothing on the menu includes these little wooden sticks, you will definitely need one after your meal. Especially if the soup of the day is red onion ($6), a luscious, Italian version of French onion soup with a strong burst of oregano. Every day the homemade soup changes, so I can’t promise they will serve it next time. If whatever they serve is half as good as the red onion, though, you will be in for a treat.<span id="more-4517"></span></p>
<p>But soup isn’t the only reason to breeze though Stecchino’s heavy doors and into the dark, candlelit bar. Once inside, the staff tries its best to make guests</p>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 510px"><img class=" " style="border: 1px solid black; margin: 6px;" src="http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t323/ourtownnews/2010/Stecchino.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Dig into silky chicken liver mousse crostini in one of Stecchino’s cozy, cream-colored booths. Photo by Linnea Covington</p></div>
<p>feel comfortable, whether seated at the thick wooden bar or in a cozy, cream-<br />
colored booth. I started at the bottle-lined bar with a glass of the fruity Gamay Noir ($9) and was graciously transferred to a table once my guest arrived.</p>
<p>Even though the restaurant was slow, the service remained sharp without being overly attentive. My cold-riddled companion waved off my suggestion of crispy fried oysters with remoulade ($12), but permitted an order of mashed artichoke mixed with salty manchego cheese wrapped with Serrano ham ($6). Coming off the sputini (snack) menu, the dish was fried with the ham acting as shell. The result is a slightly greasy, melt-in-your mouth turnover of rich meat and cheese. Unfortunately, the artichoke got lost among the strong flavors of manchego and Serrano, but it proved a warming and satisfying bite just the same. We also sampled the chicken liver mousse crostini ($5), which come two to an order. The silky pâté perfectly coated a 3-inch piece of crisp bread and tasted fresh, with a peppery bite at the end.</p>
<p>Off the pasta menu, I found a new favorite dish in the fresh pappardelle ($14), which is served with a tender rabbit ragu. The ragu has a slightly smoky flavor from the tiny chunks of soppressata. The richness of the meat balanced nicely with the lightness from a scoop of fluffy herbed ricotta. I marveled at the addition of cured black olives, which rounded out the dish with a hint of vinegar and tang. The pork braciola turned out a tad too dry, despite the slathering of a dense marinara. My companion found the sauce heavy on the garlic and, despite its obvious freshness, it still managed to taste more like a really good jar of sauce from the grocery store than a quality homemade one.</p>
<p>A better bet is the boneless game hen with a luscious sage crème ($15). This dish comes with garlicky, red-pepper-laced broccoli rabe, which proved a nice green touch to the otherwise tomato- pasta- and meat-centic meal. We decided to add a little more green and got a side order of the sautéed Brussels sprout leaves with toasted almonds ($6). The nuts were a nice take on a dish usually served with bacon, and by cutting down the little green heads to just leaves, the dish felt more airy and less dense then normal.</p>
<p>Though we skipped the tempting hazelnut crème brûlée ($8) and the flourless chocolate torte with hot buttered rum bananas and caramel ($8), we left feeling contented by our food and the charming staff. With a stecchino in hand, and a smile on our faces, we made our way back into the blistering cold of winter a little more padded. </p>
<p>&#8211;<br />
<em><strong>Stecchino</strong></em><br />
765 Ninth Ave., betw. 51st and 52nd streets<br />
212-397-2377<br />
Entrées: $12 to $15</p>
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		<title>DINING DEAL</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/dining-deal/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Feb 2010 20:00:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[News & Features West Side Spirit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Notes From the Neighborhood west side spirit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[West Side Express]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://westsidespirit.com/?p=4277</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Throughout February, the Italian eatery Carmine’s, on Broadway and West 91st Street, is celebrating its upcoming 20th anniversary by offering a $20 menu. On Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays at lunch and dinner, guests may choose from a selection of dishes, each of which costs $20 and can easily feed up to four people, according to ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Throughout February, the Italian eatery Carmine’s, on Broadway and West 91st Street, is celebrating its upcoming 20th anniversary by offering a $20 menu.</p>
<p>On Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays at lunch and dinner, guests may choose from a selection of dishes, each of which costs $20 and can easily feed up to four people, according to the restaurant.</p>
<p>The menu consists mainly of pasta and chicken dishes, including penne à la vodka, rigatoni broccoli, chicken parmigiana and chicken marsala. The restaurant’s private label red and white wines are also available. The offer is available only at Carmine’s Upper West Side location (there is an outpost in the Theater District, as well as in Washington, D.C., Atlantic City, N.J., and the Bahamas).</p>
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		<title>Fork Meets Pork</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/fork-meets-pork/</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Dec 2009 15:22:44 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Accademia di Vino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://westsidespirit.com/?p=3891</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When you enter Accademia di Vino, it is like stepping into the coziest Italian wine cellar that, just for a moment, feels as if it’s all yours. Since the restaurant boasts an 800-bottle collection, you can never run out of options. And a book-like wine list highlights bottles from each region of Italy, broken down ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When you enter Accademia di Vino, it is like stepping into the coziest Italian wine cellar that, just for a moment, feels as if it’s all yours. Since the restaurant boasts an 800-bottle collection, you can never run out of options. And a book-like wine list highlights bottles from each region of Italy, broken down by type, color and area. It reads like a well-loved novel and includes a glossary of grape varieties.</p>
<p>After careful deliberation, we chose a bottle of the Eugenio Bocchino Barbera d’Alba ($47), a full and meaty wine that worked swimmingly with the heady Italian fare Accademia di Vino offers. <span id="more-3891"></span>We toasted to the establishment’s clean décor, thus far friendly service and getting out of Brooklyn to try chef Kevin Garcia’s popular venture. Spoiler alert: We were not disappointed.</p>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 410px"><img class=" " style="border: 1px solid black; margin: 6px;" src="http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t323/ourtownnews/Accademia.jpg" alt="Accademia di Vino boasts an 800-bottle collection, much of it shelved on walls throughout the restaurant. Photo by Linnea Covington" width="400" height="275" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Accademia di Vino boasts an 800-bottle collection, much of it shelved on walls throughout the restaurant. Photo by Linnea Covington</p></div>
<p>For starters, we ordered a formaggi plate with three cheeses ($15): a smooth and sweet New York Coach Farm triple crème goat cheese, a hard and fruity taleggio from Lombardy and a buttery (with hints of nut) Ascutney Mountain, from Cobb Hill, Vt. We also tried the<br />
prosciutto and Parmigiano fritters ($12), golf ball-sized orbs of bliss that melt in your mouth with a richness intensified by deep-frying. These beauties came six to an order, way more then you need between three people and most likely the cause of fullness well before the other courses.</p>
<p>Off the pizza alla griglia menu, or “grilled pizza,” we ordered the pumpkin, pancetta and caramelized onion dish ($18) and were shocked by its dinner-platter-size. You can easily eat this thin crust pie for your main course or share among the table. And share you must, as it’s too good to keep to yourself. The small, tender chunks of pumpkin retained their firmness and melded with the caramelized onion, creating a sweet but savory dish. These two ingredients overshadowed the pancetta part, but the cured meat added a nice salty kick to the pizza.</p>
<p>Dipping into the primi, otherwise known as the pasta portion of the menu, we sampled a divine spaghetti alla carbonara ($20). This often overdone and heavy dish turned out to be light and airy, with a pleasant pepper bite at the end. A true assessment of Garcia’s knack for Italian cooking, the flavors of the guanciale (an unsmoked Italian bacon), scallion, egg yolk and cracked black pepper in this pasta dish mingled well, with nothing overpowering the smoothness of the sauce or the flavor of the noodles.</p>
<p>At this point, it was time to order another bottle of wine. The Barbera was excellent, but heavy, so we opted to try something else. The waiter was more then willing to recommend something lighter (and did so without making us feel ignorant, as so many upscale wine bars can do). We ended up going for a bottle of the Hofstatter Pinot Nero ($56). Its light peppery notes and mild sweetness went down easily with the last dishes.</p>
<p>Since everything we tried proved heavy on meat, cheese and starch, we ordered a side of fried Brussels sprouts ($9), which came flecked with small chunks of salty pork. Despite being fried, they held their texture well and added a nice green kick to the heritage pork porterhouse ($32), which was one of the thickest pieces of hog I have ever seen. We all know pork can’t stand alone; it came topped with blackened bacon (think Bacon Bits, but real food and infinitely superior), a side of tender roasted potatoes and a crisp hunk of grilled radicchio. The porterhouse came out medium-rare, another first for me in the pork realm, but it worked well. Tender, juicy and with a nice dry rub cooked into the meat on the outside, each bite tasted like a savory sliver of a non-Kosher paradise. This leads me to the only issue (but not really a problem) facing Accademia di Vino: the lack of vegetarian or non-pork fare. I suppose the Italians never thought twice when they started adding cured pork to everything—and honestly, I am glad this restaurant sticks to tradition.</p>
<p>&#8211;<br />
<em><strong>Accademia di Vino</strong></em><br />
1081 Third Ave. at<br />
East 64th Street<br />
212-888-6333<br />
Entrées: $16 to $38</p>
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		<title>A Multi-Layered Meal</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/a-multi-layered-meal/</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Aug 2009 16:21:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Angelina Pizza Bar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pizza]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://westsidespirit.com/?p=2914</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Don’t let the name fool you—Angelina Pizza Bar offers more then just pizza. This family-friendly restaurant near West 105th Street not only has extensive Italian fare and a decent wine list but Chef Giancarlo Delanzo cooks his crazy creations in a brick oven with a rotating floor. As pies like the Bella Angelina (with zucchini ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don’t let the name fool you—Angelina Pizza Bar offers more then just pizza. This family-friendly restaurant near West 105th Street not only has extensive Italian fare and a decent wine list but Chef Giancarlo Delanzo cooks his crazy creations in a brick oven with a rotating floor. As pies like the Bella Angelina (with zucchini flowers, smoked salmon and goat cheese, $18 or $24) or the Bianco Forte (with garlic, ricotta, mozzarella, spicy sausage and hot peppers, $16 or $22) circle the fire, Delanzo dishes up small bowls with various meats, cheese and vegetables. <span id="more-13577"></span>Within minutes, the pizzas have cooked and the chef has completed an antipasti plate ($6 to $14). A bright-eyed waiter picks it up and the process starts again.</p>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 410px"><img style="border: 1px solid black; margin: 8px;" src="http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t323/ourtownnews/angelinas.jpg" alt="Diners can happily fill up on appetizers at Angelina Pizza Bar, near West 105th Street. Photo by Linnea Covington" width="400" height="267" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Diners can happily fill up on appetizers at Angelina Pizza Bar, near West 105th Street. Photo by Linnea Covington</p></div>
<p>Not bad for the first week. While it’s obvious the restaurant still has kinks to work out and more staff to train (Angelina only opened in early July), so far they appear to have things together. By 7 p.m. on a Friday, most of the 20-odd tables, inside and out, were full of families and neighborhood people chowing down on large, steaming bowls of penne primavera ($12), spaghetti con polpettine (tiny meatballs) ($12), pizzas and hearty bowls of soup ($6).</p>
<p>My companion and I opted to start out with an antipasti plate laden with prosciutto, sopressata, artichoke, vidalia onions, tomato salad, portabella mushrooms, parmigianino and gorgonzola. Yes, there are even more options from which to choose. The presentation of the dish was superb and the portions more then generous. We both enjoyed the meats and cheese immensely, especially slathering the placid gorgonzola over the warm, toasted bread sticks. Where the meat prevailed, though, the vegetables tasted bland. In between bites, we sipped a mildly spicy Monte Degli Angeli Pinot Noir ($7.50 a glass, $26 for a bottle).</p>
<p>For two people, the medio antipasti proved quite satisfying. Too satisfying, perhaps, since already we felt full and still had pizza coming. On recommendation from our waiter, we ordered the Verde ($14 or $20) and the meatball ($14 or $20) pizzas. Both are made on a super thin crust (you can also get a thicker, “old fashioned” crust). From the carefully cultivated wine list created by Joseph Sangiovanni, we paired our meal with a glass of the rustic and fruity Primitivo di Salento ($8 for a glass or $30 for a bottle).</p>
<p>When the meatball pizza came out, I was surprised at how little of the handmade meatballs actually graced our pie. I imagine meatballs to be big, hunking things, so I was disappointed to see tiny piles of ground beef scattered superfluously on the pizza instead. After the first bite, though, any reservations I had were diminished. The flavorful meat combined well with the sharp pecorino and thin tomato slices. While I savored its flavor, next time I would get the old fashioned crust since the oil from the cheese soaked right through, making it slightly soggy.</p>
<p>The next pie came out and where the meatballs seemed scant, this pizza had raw arugula piled high. It looked like a salad had been built on our pizza. We took our waiters advice and awkwardly drizzled balsamic on the leaves. It had a decent flavor, but raw greens on a hot pie just felt wrong. Underneath the foliage, we found a nice layer of baby spinach encased in melted mozzarella. Now that was good. I ended up shucking the arugula and finishing the pie sans salad.</p>
<p>After eating most of the pizzas, my companion and I swore we would never gorge again. But then dessert came. Forgoing the “build your own sundae” bar, we decided to try the tiramisu. A good call, as it was one of the best tiramisus I have ever had the pleasure of devouring. Dense and rich, each layer played a distinct flavor on my tongue, and even though I didn’t think it possible to eat any more, we finished the entire thing and were on the verge of licking the plate. In the end, although Angelina’s specialty is pizza, wine, appetizers and dessert can make a perfectly satisfying meal.<br />
&#8211;<br />
<em><strong>Angelina Pizza Bar</strong></em><br />
2728 Broadway<br />
212-932-1000<br />
Entrees: $12 to $22</p>
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		<title>REVIVED NORTHERN ITALIAN</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/revived-northern-italian/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:31:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Giovanni]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://westsidespirit.com/?p=426</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There are so many good restaurants in Midtown that it’s all too easy to overlook the less showy ones, and there are so many good Italian restaurants in this city that the same is true of them. You seldom hear of Italian restaurants going under, and there are many good reasons for that, including the ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There are so many good restaurants in Midtown that it’s all too easy to overlook the less showy ones, and there are so many good Italian restaurants in this city that the same is true of them. You seldom hear of Italian restaurants going under, and there are many good reasons for that, including the restaurants’ all-around cost effectiveness. But it’s mostly due to the intense popularity of the cuisine—who doesn’t like Italian food?<br />
Even though it’s been on a popular block a few doors east of the City Center for 15 years, I didn’t really know that Giovanni existed. But two months ago, a new chef was brought in by owner Giovanni Francescotti.<span id="more-426"></span> Florentine Patrick Nuti opened Petrosino and Canapa downtown before serving as executive chef at I Trulli in Gramercy and Osteria del Circo, just down the block from Giovanni. As soon as Nuti came to his new perch, I began hearing about his cooking.</p>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 278px"><img title="Giovanni" src="http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t323/ourtownnews/Giovanni.jpg" alt="Giovanni’s dining room is placid, glowing and graceful, with very clean lines, stiffly clothed tables and quieting carpeting." width="268" height="400" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Giovanni’s dining room is placid, glowing and graceful, with very clean lines, stiffly clothed tables and quieting carpeting.</p></div>
<p>Past a row of gigantic champagne magnums, the 130-seat dining room is placid, glowing and graceful, with very clean lines, stiffly clothed tables and quieting carpeting. Upstairs are two beautifully appointed party rooms that can accommodate 70 and 30 people, respectively.<br />
A napkin-lined basked of lightly toasted bread is served with peppered chickpea paste instead of butter or olive oil. Brilliant butternut squash soup is unutterably smooth, so it’s punctuated by a sprinkled row of crushed amaretto cookies and a long squirt of balsamic reduction. It’s the very essence of autumn in a bowl.<br />
Milanese center-cut crimson prosciutto floors a large plate, centered by a tartly dressed and spidery frisée salad adorned with fresh tomatoes.<br />
Absolutely perfect, creamy al dente risotto is stirred with porcini mushrooms and black truffle oil to make it as earthy as a forest floor.<br />
Fresh spinach tagliolini is boldly sauced with a wild boar tomato gravy deepened and darkened with cocoa, reminding me yet again that autumn is in full swing.<br />
Nuti’s veal Milanese is especially toothsome. The veal isn’t pounded as excessively as it usually is; rather it is left thick enough to remind you with each succulent mouthful that it’s none other than veal. This also means that it remains moist in its crunchy crumb coating. The chop is covered with young arugula and ripe halved cherry tomatoes, and a lemon half swathed in cheesecloth is there for the squeezing.<br />
Roasted sea bream has a nice tight texture and plenty of oceanic flavor.<br />
Honeydew melon sorbet is sent out as a lovely palate cleanser before dessert is brought. An apple tart is really a fried puffy pancake with tender sautéed autumn apples. Molten chocolate cake—as plentiful on menus around town as tiramisu, and far more welcome as far as I’m concerned. The gooey cakelet is given a clean presentation, with a dollop of whipped cream on top and a strawberry jabbed with a mint leaf.<br />
For straightforward, flavor-packed Northern Italian fare in an elegant but unfussy setting, you won’t do better than Giovanni.<br />
&#8211;<br />
<strong>Giovanni</strong><br />
47 W. 55th St.<br />
Between Fifth and Sixth<br />
avenues<br />
212-262-2828<br />
Entrées: $19.75 to $38<br />
&#8211;</p>
<p><a title="Send an e-mail to Tom" href="mailto: tom@hugeflavors.com">tom@hugeflavors.com</a></p>
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		<title>ONE-STOP ITALIAN NOSHING</title>
		<link>http://nypress.com/one-stop-italian-noshing/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Oct 2008 19:00:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Eat & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Arte Around the Corner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sandwich]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Snack Attack]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://westsidespirit.com/?p=257</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Arte Around the Corner is exactly the kind of place I wish were around the corner, from me, that is. Unpretentious, with wood chairs and small marble tables, Arte offers one-stop, all-day Italian noshing. You can start your morning here with espresso and bakery items and end your day with organic wines and a light ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Arte Around the Corner is exactly the kind of place I wish were around the corner, from me, that is. Unpretentious, with wood chairs and small marble tables, Arte offers one-stop, all-day Italian noshing. You can start your morning here with espresso and bakery items and end your day with organic wines and a light Mediterranean supper. Or, you can stop in for an afternoon snack, as I did.<span id="more-13347"></span></p>
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 330px"><img title="Arte Around the Corner" src="http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t323/ourtownnews/Snack-Sandwichas.jpg" alt="Photo By: Andrew Schwartz" width="320" height="400" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo By: Andrew Schwartz</p></div>
<p>Two large clear plastic cake containers beckoned from the counter. They didn&#8217;t contain cake but the &#8220;frittatas of the day&#8221;-vegetable and a late harvest of tomato and basil. I chose the latter, which tasted like the last bite of summer and was as tall and light as a soufflé ($3/slice).<br />
But I couldn&#8217;t stop there, because I&#8217;m a fan of the mini sandwich, of which there are several varieties. These half-size panini show European restraint and ingenuity. The turkey, tomato and lettuce on a small onion roll would be nondescript deli fare if it weren&#8217;t for the glorious dollop of gorgonzola cheese in the middle ($5).<br />
The surprise burst of gorgonzola echoed the surprising nature of Arte Around the Corner: laid back, quiet and self-assured amid the loud happy-hour restaurant and bars on this stretch of Columbus.<br />
&#8211;<br />
<strong>Arte Around the Corner</strong><br />
274 Columbus Ave. (betw. 72nd and 73rd Sts.)<br />
212-875-2195<br />
&#8211;</p>
<p>Got a snack attack to share?<br />
Contact <a title="Send an E-mail to Nancy" href="mailto:NBrand@aol.com">NBrand@aol.com</a></p>
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