Whatever your politics are, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to know that there are some pretty huge problems inherent in the current business of agriculture. Way back in the 1920s, before anyone was yammering on about corn subsidies or crop rotation, an Austrian scientist named Rudolf Steiner developed a revolutionary treatise concerning the growing of grapes for wine. Though he didn’t coin the term “biodynamic” himself, his ideas are the basis of this school of thought. His philosophy centered on the idea of natural balance—specifically, the symbiotic balance of the soil with not just the air here on Earth, but the entire cosmos. He thought that if man, nature, soil and the cosmos were in balance, the Earth would be healthier, and, in turn, the grapes that grew from that soil.

These ideas penetrate every part of the grape growing cycle, starting with the farmers timing every activity in accordance with the position of the moon and stars. The fertilization of the field, pruning and harvesting are all mapped out, not only to the day, but down to the hour that is the most favorable in the eyes of the universe. The farmers who practice biodynamism claim there is a marked difference in the plants come harvest time: The leaves are healthier, the grapes ripen earlier and the grape skins are thicker.

As in organic wine making, chemicals of any kind are out of the question. In biodynamics, however, the type of fertilizer used for the vines is so specific that they must use a different type for each part of the plant. Regular old cow dung compost is used for the soil. For the roots, however, horn dung is used. Finally, for better photosynthesis, horn silica is used. This is a mixture of pulverized silicum that is mixed with water in the horn of a cow (a mixture that must be stirred in a specific pattern to adhere to—you guessed it—the cosmos) then buried for several months to cure.

At this point, you are no doubt thinking, “These people sound crazy!”

If the wines made by these moon-dancing lunatics were no better than wine made by anyone using typical modern wine making techniques, I would completely agree. But many of them aren’t just better. They’re the best.

M. Chapoutier, arguably the most well known producer in all of the Rhone Valley, uses biodynamic techniques in most of their wines. Many of Chapoutier’s Rhone wines are prohibitively expensive, but they have a handful of less expensive offerings that are just as good, including Chapoutier Bila-Haut 2008 Côtes de Roussillon ($13.99 at Morrell & Co., 1 Rockefeller Plaza at Fifth Avenue btwn. 49th and 50th, 212-688-9370). Grown south of the Rhone, this robust red still uses the typical Southern Rhone grape varietals Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. It is spicy up top with baked strawberry fruit through the middle and a cedary, cinnamon-laden finish.

Nicolas Joly is the last word in Savennières, the complex white wine that hails from the central Loire Valley in France’s northwest. Producing full bodied whites that can go toe to toe with most high-end white Burgundies, Joly also implements fully biodynamic practices. Nicolas Joly “Les Clos Sacrés,” 2006 Savennières ($48.99 at Beacon Wine and Spirits, 2120 Broadway at 74th Street, 212-877-0028) may be a bit more pricey, but it is worth every penny. Right out of the bottle it gives tons of green apple, pear and honeysuckle, but once it has opened for a half hour or so, it begins changing. Scents of wildflowers and notes of burnt sugar, tropical fruit and a nutty finish on the palate make this one of the most interesting white wines I have ever tasted.

Whether you are a convert of the ideas (and ideals) behind biodynamics, it is difficult to argue quackery when faced with amazing wines such as these.

Unlike the Union Square market, our meager outpost is only open from mid-spring to early fall. But the produce is out of this world. In the summer, I switch from the heavier fare that I slave over the stove for hours to cook, to lighter vegetable-based dishes. The less our oven stays on, the cooler our apartment is. Besides that, vegetables, to me, are the flavor of warm weather.

So I must switch to drinking sangria and beer come summer, right? Wrong! Although many people are frightened by the prospect of matching vegetables to wines, it’s really a natural pairing. If you think about it, the grapes used to make the wine and the vegetables you are cooking (or not cooking) have more in common than a Cabernet and sirloin steak. You might be surprised what some of the great match-ups are, as well.

One of my favorite things to make when entertaining in the summer is an easy asparagus side dish that is great served room temperature. Using about a pound of trimmed asparagus, I heat two or three tablespoons of olive oil in a sauté pan on low heat with five thinly sliced garlic cloves. I then add four or five roughly chopped sundried tomatoes after the oil has heated the garlic. Once the mixture has cooked for five minutes, I bump the heat up to medium high and add the asparagus, cooking for another five to seven minutes. This is amazing with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc like the Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($16.99 at Elite Wine, 558 Third Ave. at 37th St., 646-658-7548). The crisp, citrusy flavors of the wine complement the green, grassy flavors of the asparagus perfectly.

Vegetarian cuisine doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll walk away from the table hungry. If you want something hearty, a ratatouille is the perfect summer stew. Start by sautéing a chopped onion, four minced garlic cloves and a diced zucchini in a medium pot with olive oil. After everything has softened and you’ve flavored the mixture with salt and pepper, add a can of crushed tomatoes and a handful of chopped Kalamata olives. Let it simmer for a half-hour and match it with a Pinot Noir, like the Cooper Hill Pinot Noir 2008 from Willamette Valley, Ore. ($16.99 at 67 Wines and Spirits, 179 Columbus Ave. at 68th St., 212-724-6767). The acidity from the tomatoes and the natural acidity of the Pinot Noir grape cancel each other out and highlight the fruity qualities of the wine and the richness of the ratatouille.

In my book, the perfect summer pasta dish is primavera. Mine always starts with sautéing six garlic cloves with a tablespoon of red pepper flakes in olive oil over low heat. After that steeps, I add chopped summer squash and rough chopped artichoke hearts. While I’m boiling the pasta, I turn up the heat and add purple cauliflower florets, broccoli rabe and a little salt, and finish the dish by throwing in the pasta and adding a handful of grated Pecorino off the heat. This deserves a wine with a lot of fruit and personality, like the Cline Viognier 2007 ($11.99 at Beacon Wines and Spirits, 2120 Broadway at 74th St., 212-877-0028). The richness and slight fruitiness of the Pecorino matches amazingly with the full-throttle tropical fruit in the Viognier.

You don’t have to give up meat completely for summer. Where would this great country be without hotdogs and hamburgers grilling on the coals? But if you decide to lighten up with seasonal vegetables, you’ll still have plenty of drink options besides a watery beer with lime.

josh@pennilessepicure.com

To his surprise, I nodded and replied, “Yeah, your pretty right on…mostly.”

“I mean,” he said, holding up his plastic piece of stemware as though it were a specimen, “the ad said ‘bursting with tropical fruit…mangos, papaya and pineapple.’ Tastes like wine to me.”

In my opinion, if his glass of Yellowtail actually tasted like wine, he was lucky. I knew his frustration, though. The whole idea of wine tasting like exotic fruits (and sometimes vegetables) has been a marketing technique for decades. Very rarely does it ever pan out, though. There are a few grapes, however, that provide that honest to goodness, “I can’t believe this actually tastes like what they said it would,” experience, time and time again.

The next time my friend Chris came over, I had a bottle ready for him. He rolled up with a magnum of Vendage, which I grimaced at.

“Come on,” he said, “It’s cheap!”

“So is this,” I replied, handing him a bottle of Viognier.

Originally most popular for blending in the southern Rhone Valley, the Viognier (pronounced Vee-Oh-nyay) grape is bursting with tropical fruit flavors. No, really, I promise, it is! This is not just overly ornate Robert Parker-speak. Viognier is one of the most naturally full-bodied and expressive grapes for making wine that there is. The cost also tends to be a little lower because not as many people know about this fantastic wine, and there’s no need to bolster its flavor with expensive oak casks for fermenting or aging.

Also, now that we’re getting into the cooler months of the year, those of us who drink white wine can enjoy Viognier because it’s a little fuller bodied. It can do the job of a big, bad Napa-style Chardonnay, but without the price tag or the oaky, buttery finish.

One of my favorite Viogniers is the Santa Julia Viognier 2008 ($9.95 @ Sherry-Lehman, 505 Park Ave. betw. 59th and 60th, 212-838-7500). This wine is from one of the best countries on earth for great value, high-quality wines: Argentina. The hearty Viognier grape thrives in the sun here and truly does (I promise) taste like ripe tropical fruit. Specifically, overtones of pineapple and papaya on the nose and tons of mango and melon notes on the finish. If this doesn’t transport you south of the border, then turn in your passport.

Another great Viognier, this time from the states, is California’s Cline Viognier 2007($11.99 @ Beacon Wines and Spirits, 2120 Broadway betw. 74th and 75th, 212-877-0028). This time, California shines with this less robust, but extremely fruit forward offering. The tropical fruit is still there with the signature Viognier mango and wildflower scent, but the palate is a bit smoother. There are overripe orange, honey and passion-fruit flavors all mingling together in one very intense glassful.

If you want to get a taste of the old school, and not stay with a 100 percent Viognier, the Paul Jaboulet Parallele 45 Blanc 2006 ($10.99 @ Astor Wines, 399 Lafayette St. @ 4th, 212-674-7500) is a terrific example. Less fruit forward, but much more complex, this wine is actually a blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier and Bourboulenc. It is more floral than fruity, although there is more than enough orange marmalade and papaya flavor for any fruit junky. It is also an amazing wine to pair with any rich seafood dish at a fraction of what a white Burgundy would cost.

After my dissertation, I poured a glass of the Santa Julia for Chris and he stared at me.

“What?” I said.

“Aren’t you going to tell me what I’m supposed to taste?”

“I don’t think I’ll have to.”

Chris knocked back half the glass in a gulp. When he came up for air, his eyes were wide with wonderment and a smile stretched across his face.

“Fruit!” he cried.

“My sentiments exactly.”

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josh@pennilessepicure.com