Paella in the Sky
WHEN I ARRIVED at Socarrat, the new Catalan paella bar on West 19th Street in Chelsea, I ran into a friend who Id last seen leaping out of a black sedan in Barcelona, sun-kissed from a week at his parents house on the Costa Brava.
After we exchanged greetings, he asked if Id been to Socarrat before.When I said no, he smiled and then said, I think youre in for a treat.This, I thought, was a good sign. Socarrat, as the cover of the menu notes, is a Catalan word that describes the carmelization of the bottom layer of paella when the liquid is absorbed and the rice is done.The fact that theres a word to describe not just a type of dish, but an aspect of its executionand only when that execution is done wellsuggests how important paella is to Catalan cuisine. And achieving the perfect socarrat in each of the menus half-dozen paellas is what this unassuming restaurant just east of Eighth Avenue is all about.
After a few minutes, my friend Sara arrived, and there was an awkward moment as Socarrats all-in-one owner and maitre d decided which party to seat next.The restaurant is small, seating no more than 25-30 on either side of a long bar that extends into the
Seafood paella at Chelseas new home for the Spanish specialty, Socarrat.