One Great Plate: Thai Sandwiches

Thai Me Up 238 E. 14th St. (betw. 2nd and 3rd Aves.), 212-533-8424

The roots of New York’s original—and only—Thai sandwich shop, Thai Me Up, were planted on the streets of Jerusalem. Israeli owner Amir Hushinsky, whose exuberance for his healthy, southeast-Asian-inspired fare is plainly apparent in conversation, explains that the idea for this type of cuisine sprung from a dearth of Asian eateries in the Promised Land. Until recently, Chinese food and related gastronomy had only been available in sit-down fashion. “There was nowhere to get a quick, Asian-style meal,” he says. “The idea was a huge success. They’re everywhere over there now.” Lucky for us, he’s brought the tasty notion to 14th Street.

Cozy in its simplicity, Thai Me Up has just five small tables to accommodate the mostly takeout crowd, often lured in by the mouthwatering sight of its storefront kitchen. Once inside, diners can choose from the chalkboard menu overhead, where familiar dishes like Pad Thai ($7) and assorted steamed dumplings (8 for $5), are offered. But keep your sights set on the Thai sandwich, Hushinksy’s specialty and the best dish on the menu by far.

The method is easy: Start with a foot-long baguette, lay down lettuce and tomato and then quickly cover it all with a few lines of seasoned mayo and a wok’s worth of steaming stir-fry. The veggies involved, cooked with just a bit of oil, are a creative mix that smacks of Thailand and includes bean sprouts, broccoli, mushrooms, cabbage and plenty more, plus diced chicken or tofu, all for $7. If you need your red meat fix, add 50 cents for sliced beef.

Though diners are offered a choice of sauces, including the teriyaki-like “Black Pearl,” and the fruity “Pine Grand,” the true gourmet will choose the “White Ginger” sauce, which coats the tongue in smooth coconut and ginger, followed by an air of lemongrass and a small jolt of chili. You can choose your spice level from mild to ass kicking.

The sandwich itself is speedily served on a teak block and sliced down the middle to bare its flavor-soaked insides. Hushinsky sends the sandwich out wrapped like a burrito and suggests it should be eaten in a similar manner. It’s good advice. Devouring this treat is an unavoidably messy endeavor. Even scooping the inside of the bread to provide more room for the memorable mélange of ingredients can’t stop the relentless stream of sauce from dripping everywhere. I suggest washing it all down with a Thai Iced Tea ($2.50), which is mixed with condensed milk to create a silky syrup.

It might not be the sandwich and iced tea you’re used to for lunch, but it’s absolutely worth a shot.