TUSCAN COOKING, PLUS A CELEB OR TWO

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With its staid and sophisticated décor, an elegant staff to match and flawlessly executed Northern Italian cuisine, Nello has been attracting well-heeled Upper East Siders and more than a few celebrities ever since the restaurant flung open its doors in 1991. Late summer roses are practically everywhere you look in the dining room. The ivory [&hellip
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PROVENCE, VIA CHELSEA

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Allegretti had been open for only one month the night we visited it, but it has already hit quite an enviable stride on every level, from the superb French Provençale cuisine to the quicksilver and highly congenial staff to the stately and comfortable dining room. Needless to say, this sort of flawlessness takes very careful [&hellip
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GERMAN SOUL FOOD

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Most people don’t have romantic associations with knockwurst and German food in general, but wurst in a crusty roll is my madeleine, leading me to Frankfurt, October 1987. Sent to the Frankfurt Book Fair as a young editor, I promptly entered into a romance with an editor from Chicago. Every day at lunchtime we slipped [&hellip
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One Great Plate: Thai Sandwiches

Written by Jake Englander on . Posted in Eat & Drink, Posts

Thai Me Up 238 E. 14th St. (betw. 2nd and 3rd Aves.), 212-533-8424 The roots of New York’s original—and only—Thai sandwich shop, Thai Me Up, were planted on the streets of Jerusalem. Israeli owner Amir Hushinsky, whose exuberance for his healthy, southeast-Asian-inspired fare is plainly apparent in conversation, explains that the idea for this type [&hellip
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NOT YOUR MAMA'S EMPANADAS

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In the days when you used to be fed on airlines, United gave me something dubious in the wee hours of the morning: “a breakfast burrito,” a rubbery concoction filled with sausage, eggs and chemicals. So I’m skeptical when restaurants try to put breakfast, salad or dessert in anything but the middle of a plate. [&hellip
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SOUTHERN MEETS CREOLE IN SOHO

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AT LOLA, APPETIZERS AND ENTREES WITH A WHIMSICAL BUT DISTINCTIVE TOUCH By Tom Steele I was quite startled when Lola’s Flatiron location was shuttered about four years ago. The restaurant was immensely popular, cherished for two decades for its superb American/soul food, its live jazz and R&B, and its rambunctious gospel brunches. I had more [&hellip
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