Belly Up for Bulgolgi
Just the most recent example of Asian fusion
run amok, Danji, which opened in mid-December, purports to showcase authentic
Korean cuisine prepared with “classical French techniques” in an out-of-the-way
stretch of West 52nd Street in Hell’s Kitchen. It’s the first solo
venture from Chef Hooni Kim, formerly of Masa and Daniel, and fortunately, it
runs amok in pleasant and surprising ways.
The space is narrow and deep, fronted by an
inviting bar that gives way to two consecutive communal tables, then a more
private area in back. Clay pots adorn a high shelf along one of the walls, rows
of white fabric banners hang from the ceiling and individual bulbs enclosed in
rectangular wire prisms illuminate the dining room.
The ambience is soothing, with warm lighting
that softens the more severe aspects of the restaurant’s décor—all the better
to admire your date, or be admired. Just don’t go planning anything
confidential: The confines of the space mean your neighbor’s business is yours,
and vice versa.
On a recent evening, the wait-staff were
attentive, helping us locate our cocktail lists and menus, which were
charmingly tucked in drawers under our table. The kitchen produces both
traditional and modern Korean fare—served in tapas-sized portions ideal for
sharing—and rolls them out intelligently, with thought to how the serving
sequence will best coalesce into a suitable multi-course meal. Five or six
selections make a filling, but hardly overwhelming, dinner for two.
A butternut squash congee with mochi was an
ideal way to kick things off after a cold winter day. My friend thought it was
a touch under-seasoned, but I thought it was just right. Warm and mild, it
deadened our hunger pains without compromising our appetite for what was to come.
A combination of traditional and modern dishes
followed. The daikon—a white radish popular in both Japanese and continental
East Asian cuisine—was sliced thick in a tender medallion, blanketed but not
smothered in a rich sauce, sweet and black. The spicy yellowtail sashimi was
artfully prepared, an explosion of color on the plate, and the fish was fresh
and tender.
Fried calamari, speckled with red pepper, were
a wicked indulgence, even more so when dipped over-generously in a wasabi mayo.
As were the rock shrimp tempura: Encased in light batter, each one was consumed
in a satisfying popcorn crunch.
At that point, my friend went vegetarian and I
went carnivorous. He ordered and received what he described as the “perfect
tofu.” Made daily by the chef’s mother-in-law (according to our server), the
tofu shimmered like a fine panna cotta and was complemented by a garnish of
micro-sliced scallions and a side of kimchi.
My two meat dishes were equally satisfying.
Traditional braised short ribs were tender and inviting, served in a shallow
bowl to retain heat and accompanied by a stew of fingerling potatoes and pearl
onions. Pork-belly sliders were tender and spicy, an appropriately emphatic end
to the parade of dishes.
For dessert, my friend and I shared a mocha chiffon
cake, a sweet enough coda after the evening’s sharper flavors, but a bit
underwhelming compared to the moister tiramisus that must have inspired it.
In addition to the satisfying and inventive
food, Danji offers a bang-up list of specialty cocktails. Try the Su Jung Kwa,
the restaurant’s version of an Old Fashioned, with rye whiskey, lemon,
angostura bitters and seasonally appropriate accents of cinnamon. The drink is
served hot or cold.
I confess I’ve always found Korean food
challenging, feeling suspicious of flavors and textures that depart from more
familiar East Asian cuisines, like Chinese and Japanese. But Danji’s
approach—churning out dishes that exude confidence and inventiveness—won me
over. For diners on a budget, monitor your intake. A couple of cocktails, plus
a representative sampling of the traditional and modern, will quickly add up.
346 W. 52nd St. (betw. 8th & 9th Aves.)
212-586-2880