Autumn Looms; Downtown Restaurants Bloom

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Speaking of school, the
eighth-grade chainsmokers who attend summer session at Marta Valle Model
High School
, at the corner of Norfolk and Stanton Sts., challenged us to
a game of handball the other day. They beat our ass summarily and demanded a
pack of Marlboro reds as victory booty. Loath to encourage bad habits, we suggested
instead Italian ices at Ray’s, nearby on Houston St. Ray’s
pizza sucks, and at night the storefront’s buzzing neon lights throw our
pitbull/Jack Russell puppy into paroxysms of aural terror. But they do ices

It’s been a few months
now since the Ray’s empire chased poor old Sal back to Brooklyn
or Staten Island or wherever the hell he was from. Remember Sal? Think
hard. Rosario’s. Pizza joint. Three decades on Houston. A humble
and square-deal merchant beloved of the community, and so forth. Funny how all
the alt-culture posturing–all the indignation over Sal’s heartless
corporate eviction–is by now a distant and fading springtime memory. Curious
how those same concerned aspiring filmmakers and Hampshire College graduates
who shoved that boycott clipboard under our noses one February night can now
be spotted softshoeing it out of Ray’s back entrance on Orchard St.
Hey, dickhead–yeah, you with the thick black frames and the copy of Raygun
poked up your snoot. How’s that slice treating you, buddy?

Just around the corner from
Ray’s, and just in time for the autumnal rush, come two promising new additions
to the Lower East Side’s improving restaurant culture–Le
Pere Pinard
and Rivington 99. We’ve visited Le Pere Pinard a
whole mess of times since they opened two weeks ago. No fluke, that. Owner Fabrice
has created a serviceable facsimile of a French country inn, offering a wine
bar and tapas up front–okay, so it’s the sort of French country inn
that would fit right in near Seville, if you want to be all uncool and precise
about it–and a full menu in the dining room and garden. The interior’s
dark wood recalls Noho’s Il Buco; the ham and cheese tartinette,
meanwhile, does what it’s supposed to do, settling in your gut with a good,
honest weight. Also: fine herbed potatoes and sausage, escargot in pesto tapenade
and salmon ceviche. We imagine ourselves haunting these premises come the colder
months–late afternoon, maybe, on a dark Thursday fresh from our mentoring
gig, fortifying our bloodstream with a bottle of Lussac St. Emilion ’95
and meditating on the melancholic quality of soft light refracting through the
green glass of bottles. We’ve yet to order from Le Pere Pinard’s dinner

Rivington 99, meanwhile,
is a block farther south on the corner of Rivington and Ludlow–right across
the street from the dildo store, where the unforgivable Navia’s
fulfilled its wretched term on Earth. Here we’ve found good coffee,
a few simple salads and sandwiches and a eurosphere redolent of Cafe Gitane’s,
though lacking the faux-Gallic pretension. Excellent desserts, too.

To quote one of our chainsmoking
Marta Valle High School handball rivals: "Shit dog, with these new grub-ass
joints poppin’ up all over this bitch we be covered like a jimmy hat."

Like a jimmy hat indeed.

Monday, Sept. 27, Tribeca’s
Duane Park Cafe’s hosting a dinner to familiarize the public with
the wines of François Faiveley, who’s Burgundy’s
largest vineyard owner. Chef Seiji Maeda will prepare five courses of
food substantial enough to stand up to substantial wines: rosemary-roasted breast
of pheasant with red onion tarte tatin, roasted root vegetables and red verjus
glaze, for example, is third in line. The evening costs $125 per person, which
includes tax and tip. Call 732-5555 for reservations.

That Danny Meyer
sure is one gracious fellow. Mention the guy in an article, wait a reasonable
period of time and BAM! your mailbox is aflutter with a personal note from the
great restaurateur himself, thanking you oh-so-humbly for the gift of your attention–and
has he mentioned that your well-aimed criticisms are being addressed by himself
and his staff with the most reverent attention?

And so on. That sort of
obsessive attention to small, gracious points of conduct–who else in the
high-end restaurant world thanks you for criticizing his food and service?–is
appreciated here at Soup to Nuts. Which is why we’ve framed that letter
and wall-mounted it alongside our autographed picture of a glowering Florence
staring down a loaf of Stilton; and why, the slightly disappointing
Tabla aside, Meyer remains the city’s most important restaurateur,
the man to whose eateries we reflexively turn when we’ve something in mind
to celebrate–a brother’s graduation from college, perhaps, as happened
recently, or else the imminent arrival on newsstands of the latest issue of

But did you know that Meyer’s
Union Square Cafe does events, too? Wednesday, Sept. 22, the restaurant’s
presenting a "Breakfast with Alice Waters" morning, which seems
to mean that the influential Berkeley chef will materialize to shill
her new Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook (Chez Panisse Cafe is
the informal upstairs appendage to Waters’ original Chez Panisse),
answer questions, share recipes and, it seems, perform some deft cooking one-two-three
with ingredients glommed from that same morning’s Union Square Greenmarket.
The event costs $70; each guest receives an autographed copy of the cookbook.
Space is extremely limited, so call Marya Piffer at 989-3510,
ext. 24, for reservations now.

And this Thursday, Sept.
16, Union Square Cafe–along with its fellow Union Square-area residents
Blue Water Grill, Campagna, City Bakery, Follonico,
Patria and a couple of others–will participate in the fourth annual
Harvest in the Square event. What is it? A party, precisely, in a tent
erected in Union Square Park’s north plaza: Dishes will be offered
by all of the eateries mentioned above, plus a number more. Advance tickets
($60) can be purchased through Telecharge, at 239-6200. Doors open to the general
public at 7:30 p.m., and food will be served until 10. We’re told some
tickets will be available at the tent door that evening for $75, but why bet
on it?

Meli Melo, that comfortable
and inexpensive French joint in restaurant-light Murray Hill, will, between
Sept. 20 and 25, celebrate its third anniversary by serving free dessert to
everyone who eats dinner there. The restaurant’s located at 110 Madison
Ave. (betw. 29th & 30th Sts.). Reservations at 686-5551, or log on to

Yeah, but did Jack
return their credit card? Press release of the week, from midtown’s fine
Ben Benson’s Steak House: "Recently a reservation for four
at 7 p.m. turned out to be a party of four blind women (all 40-something) with
a seeing-eye dog. They asked for a booth. The dog went under the table and never
moved a muscle the entire time while the ladies set about to thoroughly enjoy
the steakhouse buzz. Veteran waiter Jack immediately brought them a Braille
menu, always on hand at Ben Benson’s Steak House. Jack cut the meats (steaks
and calves’ liver) into cubes and put some mashed potatoes on each plate.
He positioned their hands to the plate and explained the position of the foods
clockwise so that they knew exactly. They paid with a credit card, asking Jack
to add a gratuity, and then handed him a rubber stamp to place on the signature
space. On departure, Jack took one by the arm and each held hands as Jack led
them out of the restaurant, hailed a taxi, and put them inside. They were very
happy and appreciative."

Ben Benson’s is located
in Rockefeller Center at 123 W. 52nd St. (betw. 6th & 7th Aves.),

Andrew Baker, Andrey Slivka.

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and comments to or fax to 244-9864.