Author Archive

Sensuous Tuna Sashimi and Exceptional Rice Make Sushi-A-Go-Go a Lincoln Center Oasis

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

The food-critic version of the music-critic game "desert island discs" goes like this: What if you had to eat only one cuisine for the rest of your life? You’d be outfitted with a chef skilled in the tradition of your choice, who’d prepare every meal from your next until your last. He or she would
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Ottimo Fulfills My Romantic Ideal of a Quietly Great Neighborhood Restaurant

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

There are enough good Italian restaurants in New York that no one need go to one of the bad ones–that even those do well enough to survive indicates the level of demand. An Italian restaurant that offers particularly good value never goes unrecognized for long here. The herd mentality that infects, say, sushi places, doesn’t
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2001 Choco-Roundup

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

There’s something maniacal about applying the connoisseur’s ethos to chocolate. All chocolate other than fake chocolate (aka "mocklate") is satisfying. Whether served a dollop of creamy French mousse, a nugget of Italian bittersweet, a liqueur-filled truffle or a God-honest Hershey’s Kiss, if one is not some kind of maniac, one thinks only, "Mmmm." This is
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It’s the Hooks on De La Soul’s AOI: Bionix the Bring It to Life

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

De La Soul’s whole career has been about nonconformity. Their version of it transcends anticonformity, which is itself a hard enough stance to maintain. When De La Soul achieves nonconformity–as on the whole of the Amityville-bred trio’s debut, 3 Feet High and Rising, and now again, 12 years later, throughout Bionix–it’s like they’re on a
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Sum Veg Goo at Vegetarian Dim Sum House; Veg-City’s Like Ye Olde (Dairy-Free) Malt Shoppe

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

Is the idea behind the fake meat served at vegetarian restaurants that vegetarians sorely miss the sensation of animal flesh in their mouths? Tempeh and soy are to beef and chicken as methadone is to smack? Makes little sense to me. I support some aspects of the vegan vision (particularly the part about returning to
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Regional Smoked Trout from Vitas Gerulaitas’ Aunt; International Honey

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

A friendly old Lithuanian woman, aunt of the late Vitas Gerulaitis, purveys excellent smoked trout near Woodstock. Actually, she said, Smoked Fish & Honey is her son’s place, but he wasn’t around when we stopped in, after hours of determined searching. It’s a house, with the entrance to the store part via the back porch.
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You Can Get to Randazzo’s from Here, and It’s Worth the Trip; Exceptional Middle Eastern Fare at Waterfalls Cafe

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

Sitting at the counter of Randazzo’s on a hot Sunday afternoon last July, watching the oyster shuckers and the foot traffic through the big window behind them, along Sheepshead Bay, was perfect. We had a whole steamed lobster, chilled, six clams and some beers. A ballgame was on the restaurant tv. Randazzo’s raw bar was
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Read Jonathan Franzen’s The Corrections While It’s Important

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

Soon you’ll be hearing a lot about The Corrections, by Jonathan Franzen (Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 566 pages, $25). When it hits shelves in a few weeks there will be so many feature reviews that its Importance will be obvious. Then it’ll win the National Book Award, so even if you skipped the reviews you’ll
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Jerk Hunt: Seekingâeuro;”and Findingâeuro;””Real” Food in Jamaica.

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Miscellaneous, Posts

Our hotel beach bar is blasting the Bob Marley dance remixes created by another guest here, a middle-aged party dad from Indiana named Rich. Rich used the original Wailers recordings–the early sessions produced down here by Coxsone Dodd and Lee Perry, before Bob decided to go worldwide and Peter Tosh quit. Tosh’s stretchy wah-wah rhythm
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