Author Archive

Napoleon Complex: Why New York doesn’t speak affordable French.

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Breaking News, Posts

I’ve done the math. Cheap French could be done just as easily, and just as well—and it could succeed on the same level in Manhattan—as cheap Italian. All a restaurateur has to do is choose a light, Southern style to specialize in and employ a great sommelier. Extremely fresh seafood, first-rate herbs, organic vegetables and [&hellip
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Scopello’s lesson in how not to do Italian.

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Breaking News, Posts

Until a few weeks ago, the only option for Italian food in Ft. Greene was Cino’s, a 70s-style spaghetti and meatballs spot. It was a glaring absence for the Brooklyn enclave, which houses good Caribbean, French, Senegalese, New Orleans, Cambodian, Thai, Mexican, Middle Eastern and South African restaurants in about a dozen tree-lined blocks. Scopello [&hellip
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Havana Central and Uncle Nick’s Ouzaria.

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Breaking News, Posts

  One of the table sauces at Havana Central is Goya’s green tabasco. It’s the cheap, industrial way for a Latin-American restaurant to go, but Goya’s green pepper stuff is pretty good. Havana Central, one of a handful of inexpensive restaurants in the destination-dining zone between Union Square and the Flatiron Building, has the feel [&hellip
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Una Taste of Otto; Beef Bowl-a-Rama; Real Munchies Paradise

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Breaking News, Posts

I managed a single visit to Mario Batali’s brand-new pizza restaurant before deadline. It’s a big, beautiful space, not wholly unlike the restaurant that occupied the same address previously, Clementine. The chief difference is the front room, with a new bar along one wall, an adjacent antipasti station and a casual-dining area with stand-up tables [&hellip
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Hope & Anchor Diner

Written by Adam Heimlich on . Posted in Breaking News, Posts

The American institution of the everyday neighborhood restaurant only still exists, like vacant apartments, in such places as Red Hook. Not quite an exception is rural America, where one can find roadside diners making enormous omelets of farm-fresh eggs for guys in yellow "CAT DIESEL" hats before dawn. Those are places in suspended animation, however. [&hellip
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