Ace in the Hotel: Part I

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By Nancy J. Brandwein

The has two tiny, almost hidden eateries, both of which serve noteworthy snacks: No. 7 Sub (a spin-off of Chef Tyler Kord’s Ft. Greene No.7) and Stumptown Coffee Roasters.

The unifying theme to Kord’s wacky, wonderful hoagies ($9) seems to be pickles—from the pickled rhubarb in General Tso’s Tofu to pickled jalapeños in the Eggplant parm.

Photo by Daniel S. Burnstein

When No. 7 Sub started serving breakfast,* pickles were part of their wake-up call. I was dubious when I saw the cucumber peanut butter sandwich ($3) featuring “pickled bananas.” Yet the tangy bananas and the cucumbers, pureed into the PB, work with honey and PB’s natural sweetness to create a sweet/sour effect. The crusty bread—baked at Crown Heights Bun Panthers—accommodates oozy innards without getting soggy. Sometimes weirdness works. Sometimes it’s just weird, as in the corned beef hash ($5) with scallion cream cheese, zucchini and poppy seeds. Corned beef this good deserves a starring role, not schmeary scene stealers.

A bonus to any order is entrée into the Ace Hotel’s lobby, which is like the NYPL reading room albeit with food, coffee and chatting. At a long table in pools of dim light from brass lamps, a line of patrons, bloggers, no doubt, sat tapping at their laptops—all, except for one man (to be continued).

No. 7 Sub
1188 Broadway (near 29th Street, ground floor of The Ace Hotel)

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