A Smile is a Lunetta
Lunetta 920 Broadway (at 21st St.) 212-533-3663
I make it a personal policy to order anything that bears the name of an establishment Im dining in. So when I found myself waiting at the bar of the Manhattan outpost of Brooklyn eatery Lunetta, I had no choice but to order the namesake cocktail ($12). A fizzy, not-too-sweet combination of whiskey bitters, prosecco and a sugar cube, the Lunetta instantly erased my long day of office drudgery. In fact, beware: The drink was so effervescent that it went right to my weary, 9-to-5 head. I sat back and relaxed. Soon I overheard a tidbit of information that would lead to the highlight of my meal, further solidifying my belief that spying on your fellow diners is always a good idea.
While waiting for my friend at the bar, I listened as an out-of-towner couple quizzed the bartender on the bruschetta ($3.50, or .50 each) they were eating. The plate in front of them displayed all four different varieties on offer, which seemed to bewilder them. The bartender, who turned out to be their son, shrugged it off with a: You just need to order it that way. Duly noted.
Once Jenny finally arrived, her finger bandaged from a home wine-and-knives accident, we were seated and she ordered a cocktail to catch up. I piped in with a quick, And can we start off with the bruschetta, one of each? Our server didnt blink in the slightest, and soon all arrived. The Basilico ($12), a mix of sherry, processo, basil and lemon, is a perfect cocktail compliment to the varied flavors in the crunchy toast goodies. Skip the tuna with black olivesnothing about it says anything other than tuna-fish sandwich. Start off with the ricotta: Its subtle blend of lemon zest and hazelnuts would be overpowered by the stronger flavors to come, and its not to be missed. Go with the roasted cherry tomato next, and then finish up with the delicious chopped liver. I love paté, mumbled Jenny between bites. Normally I can take chopped liver or leave it, but at the moment, I agreed.
Upon ordering the fried artichoke appetizer ($12), our server warned us that they didnt prepare this dish the way we may be used to. Her warning was warranted, as we may have been disappointed when the mound of paper-thin slivers of fried artichokes arrived. Mostly recalling warm Terra Chips, ours tasted a bit under-seasoned despite healthy squirts of lemon. A spicy salad of roasted beets, blood orange and fennel ($10) was a bit too oily for my liking, and the beets were slightly under-roasted.
Braised lamb ragù with swiss chard malfatti ($22), one of the regular specials, was surprisingly hearty. The malfatti, a dumpling made of what is basically ravioli filling, were light as air, and the bitter tang of swiss chard helped to counteract the too-salty ragù. Crab risotto, a special that evening, was served al dente. I prefer simpler risotto to be served that way, though my companion didnt care for it. Since I never mentioned to the staff that there was a small piece of crab shell in my risotto, Ill never know if I would have been king for the day.
A friend of mine had raved about the Concord grape cheesecake hed had there, so I decided Id try its seasonal sibling, the pomegranate cheesecake. An almost Rubiks cube-sized block of two-toned cheesecake, this was creamy and goat-a-liciousthough a bit more of the tart pomegranate would have been nice to help cut all that richness. Uninspired chocolate cake was paired with candied citrus and frozen nougat, both of which played nicely with the chocolate but fought with each other. While they do have a nice dessert wine selection, I recommend you consider the Invernito ($12). The cocktail of ice wine, prosecco and grapes makes for a sweet and effervescent ending.
Décor wise, the new Lunetta, with its black-and-white tiled floor and marble tabletops, beats out the original, which was plopped down in a former Japanese restaurant space with little alteration. Food-wise, the original small-plates Lunetta is still tops. I have no doubt Ill return to the conveniently located Manhattan location once the warmer months arrive, when a meal of ricotta bruschetta, light and refreshing cocktails and a shared cheesecake du saison will sound like the perfect antidote to appetite-challenging heat.