A Dining Destination

"why?" that's what bill telepan wanted to know after being informed about his westy award. such self-effacing regard is rare in the world of big-name chefs, and in telepan's case it is quite unnecessary.

his eponymous restaurant on west 69th street, after all, has been a jewel of upper west side dining ever since it opened nearly four years ago. telepan is now acclaimed for its focus on fresh, local, seasonal ingredients and for both exquisite vegetable preparations and some of the best egg-based dishes in the city.

"i've been doing it for a while and not just here," the chef said of his approach. "i've worked with many great chefs who held that philosophy, so for the last 20 years i've been cooking this way. there have been many before me who thought this way. it's not just a trend for me."

telepan, a new jersey native who spent years apprenticing in france, has been based on the upper west side since 1991 and is now a neighborhood fixture. there are rumors that he intended to open a wine bar in the area, though those plans are apparently very uncertain. he's worked at such new york city standouts as le bernardin, le cirque and gotham bar and grill before opening ansonia on columbus avenue in 1998.

"[ansonia] didn't make it partly because i don't think the upper west side was ready yet," telepan said. "it was 1998, and real estate hadn't quite taken off. we were probably a couple of years ahead of our time."

from ansonia, telepan moved on to judson grill, where he spent six celebrated years before coming back to his own neighborhood.

why did he choose to return to the upper west side?

"it actually chose me," telepan said. "i was looking at spaces all around town, and i knew this space from living up here. when it became available, i was glad to be home. i knew i had a good situation coming here."

telepan has managed a difficult feat in his restaurant, marrying fine, upscale dining to an ambiance that is both formal and relaxed, without pomp or attitude. the result is delicious food served in a comfortable atmosphere.

"on the upper west side, we knew that we had to become a neighborhood restaurant," he said. "we had to cater to the people who lived here. you get to know the people more. when i walk to work, i get to say, 'hi' to people on the street. it's a place that folks can call their own."