BEST OF MANHATTAN

Manhattan Living



BOM-Manhattan Living - Final


BEST JEWISH DATING SCENE

SATURDAY MORNING AT KEHILAT HADAR

Kosher meat market. One of the reasons young, single Jewish New Yorkers go to synagogue on Friday and sit through an hour and a half of Hebrew prayers, self-righteous sermons from rabbis and all that Manischewitz is that it's one of the easiest dating scenes in New York. When you're standing with a prayer book in your hands and a shawl wrapped around your shoulders, it somehow doesn't sound quite so sketchy to ask, "Haven't I seen you here before...?"

For those who have mastered the Jewish Dating Scene, there are a number of old favorites:

B'nai Jeshurun (don't laugh: abbreviated as "B.J.") was once considered the hot Jewish dating scene of the Upper West Side. It's Uber-Reform and extremely "inclusive" (aka annoying). But most people who attend B.J. have, well, married each other. Everybody's a family now; it's really not the place for a single Jew looking to score. Then a few years ago, Jews (and quite a few non-Jews) were going nuts on the internet dating site, J-Date (and they still are, to a large extent), but like any dating site, more than a few slimeballs can be found in these seemingly innocent "profiles."

For those looking to meet the lunatics (the ones who try to convince us to grow our beards and move to Israel), try the Manhattan Jewish Experience, a missionary organization aimed at making young Jewish professionals more religious. (Don't laugh—some super hotties spend their Friday nights there.)

And Makor, of course, the Upper West Side Jewish arts center, has a lovely bar where one can get one's Jew on.

But the best Jewish dating scene right now is Kehilat Hadar, which meets every other Saturday morning in the basement of the Second Presbyterian Church at 4 W. 96th St. at Central Park West. The service is serious and egalitarian; committed Jews recite their prayers, sway, dance the Torah around the room. And unlike a lot of the wealthier synagogues, the Hadar people are expected to bring something to the meal afterward.

There's something about this communal spirit that gets people really excited. Those who attend Hadar really get into it—a less-than-full house is rare—and nearly every week an engagement is announced. Almost every engagement is followed by a statement like, "Sarah and Shlomo met, right here, in Hadar."


BEST STREET TO
FIND PEOPLE YOU'D LIKE TO STRANGLE

ELIZABETH ST.

Preferably while they're on the cellphone, eating corn. We don't know exactly when New York got square. Rudy Giuliani is the most obvious cause. The dotcom boom that put absurd amounts of money in the hands of 24-year-olds didn't help. Kids right out of college, by the laws of nature, are supposed to be flat broke, if only to learn the value of cheap beer, falafels and using your imagination for fun. That peculiar bubble turned the world upside down by giving young twerps entrée into the world of swank restaurants, expensive nightclubs and fancy living that would normally be reserved for the over-40 set.

Used to be, poor but creative kids set the tone. Today the affluent, unhip and unimaginative have taken over streets that once belonged to the creative class that actually produced interesting things. On Elizabeth St. alone, you'd see photographer Sandy Skoglund, theater director Ping Chong, Eric Bogosian, Martin Scorsese, Robert Frank and (an artist of a sort) Sammy "The Bull" Gravano. The local residents had color and charm; so did the stores that catered to them.

Most of those characters are dead or have moved away. What these storied streets attract now are shoppers—consumers, not producers—who plod through a place they've been told to visit, without a thought in their heads for anything more than buying shiny crap at ridiculous prices. It's a shopping district for day trippers from Connecticut and the Upper East Side, and residents are forced to wade through the clots waiting to munch on the roasted corn at Café Havana. (Roasted corn as delicacy is rivaled only by rice pudding as the most asinine food fad in the area.)

By day, Elizabeth St. is a constant battle against the throngs of slow-walking shoppers who shuffle like zombies to stare at shoes and ironic furniture. Most mornings, there is an old, crippled man on the street who takes his daily constitutional with a walker—and even he manages to get down the street faster than these mesmerized Nolita shoppers. Hipsters? Hell no. These are Paris Hilton lookalikes, down to the oversize glasses and pink tutus, oblivious to everything except what beckons them from the store windows. And by night, it's a year-round spring-break hangout for drunken "wooooo!" girls and their woofing, wasted boyfriends baying to hump them.

Things change. We understand that. But for a neighborhood to morph from a vivid classic like Little Italy into what it is today—the execrable Nolita—is heartbreaking.


BEST ANNOYING NEW TREND

CONFIRMING EVERYTHING

Got that? It's actually a reactionary trend, an answer to the rampant flakiness of yesteryear. It particularly galls us because we're people of honor. When we say we'll be there, we'll fucking be there. But now we must confirm, then they must confirm and our phone is ringing off the hook with reminders and promises about going to the dentist/clinic/lunch the very next day.

Perversely, it's also a clever way to be unreliable. If you don't want to go to dinner with somebody but have accepted, you don't actually have to show up anymore. When the offended party calls, demanding an explanation, you can act startled and angry: "Oh, did you still want to do that? It's just that you hadn't confirmed with me."

When exactly did this pigheaded logic come into common practice?


BEST PLACE TO
GET ROOFIED

THIS DOWNTOWN IRISH PLACE
THAT WE NO LONGER GO TO

Centrally located, but still off the list. To the best of our recollection, we made it through college without being slipped any variation of Rohypnol. We put in time at fraternities, in dorms and off-campus houses. (This doesn't include the time we popped a couple in Tijuana just for kicks.) So for the past few years we've grown lax in regards to our drink-monitoring habits, except for our regular routine of kindly asking our friends not to roofie us while we're in the bathroom. That was more for affect than effect.

This was no truer than in one of our favorite bars, a place we'd avoided name-dropping extensively and to much editorial struggle for almost two years. So we guess you could say we were asking for it, when our eyes were opened to the fact that roofies aren't just for frat boys anymore. Some months back, we headed to the hallowed haunt for a few after-work drinks—read: three—that left us instantaneously wasted, quickly on our way home but not before maybe—or maybe not—swapping spit with an old bald English guy. Ugh.

We were an easy target, having opted for a glass of beer over the bottle. (Because it's an Irish joint, we didn't want to attract the wrong kind of attention by sucking on a bottle. Oh well.) Our two wingmen, used to our pre-bathroom spiel, had clearly failed us—disarmed by the accented banter of nearby drinkers. One fly in particular, an English recovering-thug who clearly channels Trainspotting's Begbie for inspiration, was the most friendly. And therefore, he's the prime suspect.

Here's how it happened. We'd made a dent in our second beer before stealing off to break the seal, and returned to find a premature new beer lined up. When we inquired, we were told it was our buyback. Sounds reasonable, we thought, so we went back to the drinking. As we sipped the third—and final —beer of the evening, conversation grew harder to follow, accents got thicker and words were stumbled over. Then everything went black.

The rest of the evening was filled in by our faithful companions who reported we became instantly drunk, stopped drinking without even making a dent in the third, and insisted on going home, unable to even carry on bar chat. Begbie was kind enough to walk us to a cab, where it's possible a "wee bit of a kiss" was had. Fortunately, we arrived home solo, but were completely unable to open either door to our apartment, much to the chagrin of our roommate, who found us starring helplessly at a set of keys, eyes rapidly darting back and forth, unable to focus.

She let us in, where we promptly passed out on the couch and didn't move until the next day. Remembering nothing, we can't say who did it or why, but we learned our lesson the hard way. If it happened here it could happen anywhere, so from now on we hold tight to our drinks—now preferred in bottles—even dragging them to the bathroom when necessary. If we want to get so fucked up we can't remember the night before, we'll do it the old-fashioned way: with Jagermeister.


BEST PLACE TO GET JUMPED BY TEENAGERS

THE CLOISTERS

Nowhere left to hide. Tired of the cannibalism of the city? Want some breathing space, to read and reflect? Just take the A-train to the second-to-last stop up north and regain your selfhood in the rustic and peaceful grounds of Fort Tryon and the Cloisters. We like the river sliding beneath it, sparkling in the noonday sun, and the white clouds puffing away like plumes of tobacco smoke from kind old mother nature's corn cob pipe.

The day we went, the city had been gnawing on us, trying to suck out our marrow. We couldn't redistribute the bitterness that was usually easy to pass on to the next dweller; things needed to just slow down for one second. That's all we needed before jumping back into the boiling vat of iron called Manhattan.

So up we went. The wide-open spaces make us uncomfortable, so we hurriedly looked for a spot facing the river. Sitting there alone, we began to concentrate a little bit on ourselves and began to unwind. Until, of course, the bushes seemed to waver and—

And a dozen teenagers emerged, laughing. The city has found us and has now come to reclaim its own. They spread out in every direction, asked us for the time, laughed some more. And then all of a sudden a knot of them lauch their wiry little bodies onto us and begin to awkwardly pound. We're not hurt badly, just maybe a small knob on top of our head. They ran away laughing as soon as their scouts down one side of the path indicated that someone was coming.

We've learned our lesson. We understand that we can't ever get away from the city. Not even a Cloister can provide sanctuary.


BEST LITERARY ADVICE

RON MCKECHNIE
CONSERVATORY POND

ENTRANCE AT 72ND ST. & 5TH AVE.

Full-speed ahead. The Beats, who invented the term Automatic Writing, would have liked Rule No. 6 on the signboard posted on Ron McKechnie's cart in Central Park. The gentle McKechnie, who looks like a friar, oversees the miniature sailboat concession at Conservatory Pond, on the east side of the Park. With the aid of a remote control, children of the bourgeoisie spend a dreamy hour steering McKechnie's boats from the pond's shore.

McKechnie has a sign listing seven rules for sailing. Like all good rules, they're sensible and short. ("Do not hit other boats" is number one.) Often, while writing at our desk these days, we find ourselves calling up rule number six: "When you are going fast you are doing something right."

Like the best rules, besides being sensible and short, this one carries over to realms of experience outside the bounds of its first application. Rule number six, to our way of thinking, deserves immortality in the form of a sampler for all blocked writers to gaze on at intervals. If the verb "to inspire" means "to fill with divine breath," writers need to run with the wind when it comes.


BEST PICK-UP BY BUS DRIVER (MTA)

M-14, HEADING WEST ON 14TH ST.

The little bike that could. We were riding our little blue Traveller bicycle, a Traveller because it folds, not because it would be at all efficient to ride long distances, on the way home to Hell's Kitchen after brunch. We love our bike, with its single speed and slow starts when the light changes to green, especially on Saturday afternoons when our car enemies are diminished in number.

Hardly anyone was out as we headed west on 14th St. But then, "Go, little bike! You can do it!" While we frequently whisper encouragement to inanimate objects, this time the call had come from the outside world. We skimmed the sidewalk for laughing teenage boys. Not a one.

Then: "Hey little bike, I'll race ya!"

The sound was coming from behind as we slowed for the red light at 8th Ave. Slowly, we turned around, coming face to face with the M-14 bus. Who knew the buses had speakers directed outward? More importantly, we wondered, could the passengers inside the bus hear this?

Feeling awkwardly aware, we rolled through the red light, heading uptown on 8th Ave. We made it about two blocks when the bus rolled into view two lanes over. "Hey, you cheated, little bike," the driver admonished, waving as we rode on.


BEST PICK-UP BY BUS DRIVER (SCHOOL BUS)

METROPOLITAN & GRAHAM AVES., WILLIAMSBURG

We're flattered, but... We're feeling a bit under the weather as we walk home along Metropolitan Ave. in Williamsburg, so we nearly lose our shit when the yellow school bus honk as we cross in front of it on Graham Ave. We have long had a tendency, heightened exponentially by cold and sinus medicine, to become a ditz at intersections.

We rush the last few feet to the curb, then look back to see the light still red. Which leaves two options: Either we dropped something across the street or we tucked the bottom of our skirt into our underwear and the bus driver was drawing our attention to our one-woman show. We count our plastic bags (1. Ansonia pharmacy, 2. 99-cent store, 3. fruits and vegetables). We run our hands over our ass—skirt intact. So, what?

Another honk. "What are we doing wrong?" we ask in gesture as the light changes to green. The bus inches up a bit and then stops. Through the window it looks like the driver is waving us over. A woman is standing behind him in the aisle. Perhaps they've taken a wrong turn coming home from a school trip?

We head to the driver's side, hesitating as the cars behind the bus start honking.

"Hey," we say.

"Hey."

"Can I help you?" we ask.

The driver just looks at us. The woman behind him just stands there.

"Yeah," he finally says, oblivious to the cars honking behind him. "Gimme your number."

"What?!"

"C'mon, cutie. Gimme your number."

We slowly turn and walk back to the curb, scratching our head. We realize that we didn't notice if there were students in the back of the bus, but with the ambitious driver honking at us again, we resist the temptation to turn around and check the back seats.


BEST PARK TO
BUY NEWPORTS

WASHINGTON SQUARE PARK

The black tabac market. Before running around downtown, the first place any good 16-year-old hooligan stopped was Washington Square Park, where shady Rastafarians, the homeless, skaters and con artists ruled the night. Before the security cameras were installed, you could score low-grade weed, some weak acid on a good night, even a bag of white powder that actually came from South America and not just inside a bottle labeled "Johnson & Johnson."

Then Giuliani and NYU flexed their muscles and cleaned house, making the park a lot less, um, dark after night. It's a pretty safe place now, as evidenced by the park's current black-market industry: cigarettes. Whereas once we heard, whispered and slurred, "smokeweedpotacidcokemushrooms," we now hear "Newports. Newports. Newports." With countless other spots to buy loosies, just why kids would buy them here makes no sense. We're still glad to see Washington Square Park trying its damnedest to retain a touch of outlaw.


BEST FAST-FOOD
PARADISE

MCBURGERKINGALD'S

Have it both ways. In the city, fast-food outlets look vaguely lost and forlorn, a trifle out of place crammed between bodegas and nail salons, overeager like conventioneers strayed from the Chelsea Piers and wandered unawares into the thick of the Meatpacking District. The fast-food experience, after all, is hopelessly entwined with the automobile; in the pedestrian fantasia of the city, burger joints lack the defining accoutrements so familiar from countless suburbs and road trips: an illuminated sign on a pole, a parking lot, a drive-thru window. Take away the car, and the appeal is reduced to blunt cheapness and speed.

Two such franchises, the northernmost in Brooklyn, have struck upon a novel method of avoiding the loneliness. At the corner of Greenpoint and Manhattan Aves., a McDonald's and a Burger King cling to each other for dear life, with the oddly shaped BK actually forming an L around the McD's, enfolding it on both sides, a forbidden embrace of the Montagues and Capulets of cholesterol.

There's something undeniably poignant about this pair, hunkered down in one of the last great immigrant enclaves of the near outer boroughs. One would expect these processed-food giants to observe the laws of brand decency and permit one another a respectful distance. (Certainly this tends to hold true even in the close quarters of the airport concourse or the mall food court.) Not so out here, where the butchers and stevedores and travel agents of Little Warsaw go about their business around the two restaurants, blithely indifferent, neither Lovin' It nor Havin' It Their Way.

But cry not, for as the hipster baby boom overspills Williamsburg, McBurgerkingald's will be there, doing what they do best: feeding fries to the kids and fostering a comforting sense of ill ease among people who should know better than to suckle at this teat


BEST PUBLIC
BATHROOM

PLAZA HOTEL

5th Ave. at Central Park South
212-759-3000

Of course I have a room here. The ones in Starbucks smell awful from all the coffee squirts. The ones in Barnes & Noble are filled with parents changing diapers. The ones in department stores are too hard to find, and the ones in the parks are filled with the homeless washing themselves. If you have to go, why not go at one of the world's most luxurious hotels?

As an old professor once told us, "As long as it looks like you know what you're doing, no one will question your actions."

That's great advice, no matter where you are, but it's especially important to remember if you're sneaking into a five-star hotel just to use the crapper. In which case, make a left after walking past the folks drinking their tea. Then a quick right. Make another left at the stairs. Then another right, heading down a short flight of stairs. And there they are: The gentlemen's room is on the right side and the ladies', on the left.

Turns out, you actually don't need to look like you know what you're doing at all. You just have to look for the signs that will direct you to the bathrooms. We might even recommend a pleasant saunter through the hotel. It's an awfully nice place.

After we finished our business, we let the attendant treat us like we were guests at the hotel. They turned on the water, squirted a few dollops of scented soap into our palms and handed us as many paper towels as we wanted. We didn't worry about turning off the faucet. That was taken care of for us.

Sure, you don't have to tip at Barnes & Noble, but we emerged from the Plaza feeling just short of having showered. That's worth handing over a couple bucks to a hard-working man..


BEST YOGIC CONTORTION

PIGEON

Rat-with-wings position. You're on the ground, one leg stretched out behind you arrow-straight, top of the thigh, shin and foot pressing into the floor. Your other leg is out in front, bent at the knee, calf perpendicular to the thigh and back leg, shin against the floor. Your arms and torso might be draped forward, and perhaps your forehead is pressed against the floor. Chances are, you're on a mat, and a dozen or more other people are in the room with you doing the same thing. Don't say "ouch." Say "pigeon."

We never thought we'd be the yoga type. We're curmudgeonly and impatient, especially when it comes to hippies, who've spoiled everything from granola to comfy sandals for the rest of us. In the past, we found yoga frustrating and confusing, and loathed those om-happy, perfectly toned, high-on-life instructors. A former Go Yoga teacher named Courtney once tried to force our heels to the floor in downward dog, and we hissed in rebellion, "Hamstrings—won't—stretch—any—further!" eliciting muffled cheers from other similarly tortured students.

But after a recent surgery to remove a scary breast tumor meant no running—and training for the marathon had been taxing our knees, besides—yoga clicked. Habit of Creation founder Julia Frodahl treated us to a private lesson after our first class, and that hour and a half cleared up years of confusion. We found ourselves consistently attending her Sunday class at the Greenspan Center; her clear instruction and uncanny ability to thoroughly challenge students without incapacitating them won our trust and respect.

Pigeon, step one of a far more advanced contortion called Eka Pada Rajakapotasana, is common to beginners' classes; teachers tend to sneak it in after a lot of sun salutations and downward dogs, when students are panting and sweaty. After a year of practicing yoga, we can now do a headstand and the superwoman-esque warrior III; we can stay in tree pose about half the time; and we're this close to achieving full wheel. Yet it's humble pigeon that we love best.

"Pigeon is one of those poses in which gravity does much of our work for us if we let it—that is reason enough to love it. But the pose gives a deep stretch to an area that is tight for many people, and releases good-mood hormones into the system," Frodahl explained. "Besides that, there is much to learn from the name of the yoga pose alone: Pigeons are dirty-feathered survivors who get a pretty bad rap but still manage to keep their chests puffed up and their hearts held forward."

We're not so sure about relating to actual city pigeons. Besides being survivors, they also bear disease and regard the world at large as their toilet. But we'll wring the living hell out of our hips for those good-mood hormones.


BEST CORPORATE SCAM

THE KINKO'S PENNY PINCH

Pennies from heaven. We've never met anyone who didn't loathe Kinko's for their abominable disdain toward customers, but what miffs us the most is their self-service copiers, which you must obtain a "value card" to use if you want to make 10-cent copies. The catch is that the copies are in fact an awkward (and secretive) 11 cents, meaning that almost all of their patrons end up leaving one to 10 cents on the cards, which we figure adds up to a shitload of free money for Kinko's all over the U.S.A.

If Eliot Spitzer weren't so busy with his bad combover, maybe he'd take a look at this.


BEST CUSTOMS AGENT TO AVOID
WHEN BRINGING DRUGS THROUGH JFK

LECH WALESA

Speedy delivery. We always promised ourselves we'd never bring drugs through the airport. We'd seen Midnight Express at an impressionable age, and we're familiar with minimum sentencing laws in this country. We'd also rather be poor and sober for the rest of our lives than be bent over the communal shower drain at Attica for 10 minutes.

But then we tasted Laos-made yaba in Phnom Penh. Pure speed in a pill. In the words of our Cambodian scooter driver, "Yaba party time! Good for drink beer! Good for girl!" It was good for everything. One micro-pellet had us zipping along strong for three to five, with an easy comedown and no toxic aftertaste in the blood. Short of what presidents get during missile crises, it is some of the cleanest meta-amphetamine mass-produced anywhere in the world. At two bucks a hit, we giddily bought up 80 pills and started thinking about how to get it back to New York. It was hard to imagine going back to the Ajax 'n' chalk meth that passes for crank in this town.

Ignoring every screaming instinct in our brain and body, we stuffed a tight bag of pills inside the toe of a dirty sock, which we wrapped in a t-shirt and bunched at the bottom of our backpack. Everything in the pack was damp and stank with budget-travel fumes. A customs agent might take out each item one by one, but pry open and inspect these Socks of Doom? Unthinkable.

When we arrived at the customs gate, we were tired but nervous, already regretting our gamble. There was one person in front of us, and a lone inspector called him over. The agent was a heavy-set man of late middle age with thick walrus bristles. The Polish-American poster uncle of Reagan-Democrats, he looked determined to do his part fighting both the war on drugs and the war on terror. Since we looked like a cross between a bearded Mohammed Atta and a gutter hippie, we were very curious to see how JFK's Lech Walesa handled the business-casual guy in front of us. If he was put through the ringer, we might as well surrender right now.

We watched in horror as everything in his suitcase was taken out and laid on the table. Walesa then began going through everything on the table with great care. Not the socks, not the socks… The socks. The inspector methodically squeezed each pair of socks up and down.

Our heart started pounding inside a frozen chest. We were nailed.

Fuck.

What's the law on speed?

Would they think it's ecstasy?

Is that better?

Sixty pills equals—

Didn't we hear about some kid who got 10 to 20 for less than this?

Is it too late to go back?

Fuck.

Fuck.

Fuck.

Fu—

And then Jesus appeared. It turns out Jesus is a lanky black customs agent at JFK. We shouldn't have been surprised. He appeared out of nowhere, sat down behind another table and waved us over with something resembling a smile. We walked over, plopped our pack down and suddenly felt safe. Saved.

"Where are you coming from?" he asked.

"Vietnam and Cambodia mostly," we replied, trying to control our breathing.

"Oh, yeah? I did two tours in Vietnam," he said in a friendly voice.

"No kidding? Wow," we said. "It's—it's probably changed a lot I bet. Um…"

He opened up our pack and pushed our dirty clothes around a bit. He unzipped our toiletries bag and shut it when he saw the deodorant and toothbrush.

"Did you buy any medicine or anything like that over there?" he asked.

"Nope. No, nothing like that. Just a t-shirt and some film." We began to dig into the bag, to prove there was some film in there.

But he didn't care. He just told us to have a nice day and waved the next person over. Home free. As we walked toward the exit, we glanced over our shoulder at the other inspection table. The well-dressed man was still being thoroughly inspected by Lech.

Outside, the November sun was shining. We started laughing out loud as we stepped into the cab. We smiled all the way to Midtown, promising ourselves to never, ever do that again. We probably won't, either, but that one time was worth it. We got to meet Jesus and lived to talk about it.

As for the yaba, those wonderful pills were gone in a week, our gift to the world.


BEST WAY TO GENERATE NEW REVENUE

LEGALIZE THE VICES

Amsterdam on the Hudson. The city is facing multi-billion-dollar deficits, and the best ideas our billionaire mayor can come up with to make up the shortfall consist of doubling the cost of parking tickets, closing essential firehouses and stiffing the cops and firefighters on their salaries. We have a better idea, one based on sound free-market principles of supply and demand.

The city should create zones in which Amsterdam-style rules apply to the sex trade and cannabis. East of Broadway, between 14th St. and Houston, for instance, would be a perfect venue for the "coffeehouses"; the area just south of the Javits would be extremely convenient to conventioneers for the prostitution market. Licensing, taxing and generally regulating these two indomitable local industries would spark a new wave of tourism and generate a huge flow of revenue for the city, not to mention gainful employment for many residents lacking the skills necessary for other trades.

Should the hyper-vigilant moralists of the NIMBY crowd begin nattering about the danger to "the children," we could refute them by pointing out that "the children" in this town are responsible for the bulk of the violent crime. Or, we can simply move both operations to Governor's Island—and throw some casinos in, to boot. No one under 21 gets on the island. Easy enough.

If a city as glorious and welcoming as Las Vegas can sprout and bloom in the godforsaken desert of southern Nevada based on indulging the public's appetite for forbidden pleasures, we too can pull ourselves up from the economic quagmire in which we are trapped by upping the ante and grabbing the pot. So to speak.


BEST RUN-IN WITH AN EX

"Oh, hi."

"Oh my god, what are the chances?"

"Yeah, wow. New York really is a small place."

"You can say that again."

"Yeah."

"So, you look really good."

"Well, yeah, I've actually started to take care of myself and not let others make me feel like a worthless pile of crap."

"Uh, yeah. That's…great."

"Oh, you know, it's just what I've learned, you know, that no one really will be there for you, and people will always let you down and just leave when you really need them, like when your dog just dies or maybe when you're diagnosed with cancer."

"…"

"But how are you?"

"You weren't diagnosed with cancer when we broke up."

"And I didn't have a dog. But I could have had one; that's the point. You just didn't ever really care about me. You just used me and had fabulous sex and talked late into the night and shared so many dreams for our future. You just abandoned me. Oh, is that your new friend over there? Of course: blonde. You are so obvious."

"Hey, you were the one that wanted space in the first place."

"But I didn't want to break up, I just wanted some time to think."

"Well, it gave me time to think, too, and I realized that I needed to get out. I'm really sorry."

"But I loved you. I still love you. I want you back, I need you."

"Did you follow me tonight?"

"…"

"You followed me from my apartment?"

"No, no, of course not. That'd be a little weird, wouldn't it?"

"Oh come on, I know you did, you would never come to a place like this."

"Maybe I would. You don't know me."

"…"

"Okay fine, I didn't. Well, actually, I was in your closet watching you get dressed earlier. You know I still have the key, so I just sometimes let myself in and walk around and sniff things. And if you come home and surprise me, like you did tonight, I sit in the closet, you know, the one where we had that amazing sex that one time. You remember that, uh?"

"…"

"Um, I was just kidding. Hey, where are you going? I love you…"


BEST NAME FOR A
LUXURY DEVELOPMENT

EAGLE WAREHOUSE

Where yuppies dare. When did West Chelsea die on the vine? Was it when New York magazine dubbed it "the" neighborhood, thereby ruining it, as so many times before ("If You Like Europe, You'll Love the Village"; "The Yupper West Side"). It's hard to believe, sampling $13 raspberry martinis on 10th Ave., but this was once a gritty manufacturing area. (The High Line delivered raw materials and picked up finished goods before it became an urban theme park.)

Not so long ago, you could rub bellies while avoiding rats at Zone DK, a cavernous gay sex club. Serious leathermen would cruise the West Side Highway along 21st and 22nd Sts., straddled by the Eagle and Spike—or "the Spiegel," as it was known. Both bars have been demolished, but you can still own a piece of the Eagle—the old Eagle Warehouse, to be exact, just around the corner from the original leather bar (not to be confused with its latest incarnation a few blocks to the north). It'll cost you, though: Prices start at around $600 per foot.


BEST BLOCK TO
FIRE-BOMB

CLINTON ST.

Let Vonnegut chronicle the ruins. There's something about a groundswell gone to shit. Take the Lower East Side's Clinton St. Until five years ago, the block's culinary options ranged from rice to beans, with side offerings of meats of the fried and stewed sort. Restaurants were quaint, cozy and in tune with the largely Hispanic populace. Then a little eatery called 71 Clinton Fresh Food set up shop, attracting high-rollers to the low-rent 'hood.

Quickly, Clinton St.'s flavor morphed from home-cooked carbohydrates to goat-cheese terrines and skate with a butter emulsion. Where bodegas once outnumbered restaurant critics 10 to one, entrepreneurs snapped up leases for a pittance, setting the stage for a cuisine invasion. Tapas at 1492. Sushi at Cube 63. Esoteric American at WD-50. And, just like that, bye-bye bodegas.

Today on Clinton St., rice and beans are rarities. Mouth-searing Thai, fresh-baked organic bread and figs stuffed with prosciutto and mint are not. A fine selection for the foodie, but sadly out-of-whack with longtime locals. A market correction is in order. We recommend Dresden.

In WWII, Allied planes firebombed Dresden, Germany, into a smoldering ruin. It bore a not dissimilar appearance to the Lower East of recent vintage. Hence, we recommend a new diet on Clinton St.: Molotov Cocktails. Several of these flame jobs will send property values scurrying back to normal and, hopefully, the gourmands and their truffles back uptown.


BEST REASON TO JUMP

TUITION


BEST BLOCK TO FIND
A BODY IN A SUITCASE

EAST 13TH ST.

Where's that real rain? There are several noteworthy tidbits about the bodega-strewn stretch of 2nd and 3rd Aves., smack on E. 13th St. First, Taxi Driver was shot amid the bygone cocksuckers and junkies. Second, it was once site of a building collapse. Third, its empty lot is, evidently, a great resting place for a trunk containing a rapidly decomposing corpse.

The lot in question—filled with rubbish and fast-food wrappers—was formerly the site of the ornate Jefferson Theater that, like much of 70s and 80s East Village, spiraled into disrepair and a refuge for drug addiction. In 1999, the building was demolished, but the area's evils were not so easily razed. The rubble-strewn lot quickly became a refuse epicenter. Local citizenry tried cleaning up the lot. However, the lost cause degenerated until early June when a homeless man, rooting around an abandoned trunk, found neither trash nor treasure, but something far more horrific.

We certainly mourn the loss of this woman's life. We're far from fans of murder, though we have favored a capital punishment or four. However, the trunk serves several reminders. First, the East Village's edges are far from Chelsea Boy smooth. Second, the reports about a paucity of open space are far exaggerated. Third, we'll never leave our luggage unattended again.


BEST SUBWAY LINE

7 TRAIN

Eat deez nuts John Rocker. Remember that hot-as-shit relief pitcher for the Atlanta Braves? You know, the one who didn't play professional baseball this season? Seems that after increasingly diminishing returns and so-so seasons with the Cleveland Indians, Texas Rangers and Tampa Bay Devil Rays, Rocker quit. He's, um, promising a return in 2005.

Rocker, you'll remember, caused an outrage in a 1999 Sports Illustrated article when he disparaged 7-train riders, Mets manager Bobby Valentine and the city of New York, saying he'd retire before playing for either team. Of course, the shit hit the fan and we all know what happened—the flying batteries and the shouted insults, first at Shea and then in the Bronx. But it brought the 7 train into the spotlight as the one subway train people west of the Hudson might be able to identify.

Relief pitchers aside, the 7 train shares the problems of all subway lines in the city. The MTA recently replaced all the old red cars with silver cars, facilities could be upgraded and the Roosevelt Ave. Station looks more like a permanent construction site than a transportation hub.

But there are plenty of things to celebrate about the train. Service is frequent enough. The cars are usually air-conditioned in the summer. The freaks are usually pretty entertaining. You can buy batteries, cheap kiddie toys and wallet chains at deeply discounted prices. There are plenty of attractive people of both sexes to ogle from behind your reading material. And with a bus connection or two, the 7 can get you just about anywhere you want in Queens, from industrial LIC to Flushing. Since it's elevated, you can talk on your cellphone, catch great views of Manhattan and avoid those unbearably hot subway stations.

A lot of the time, talking about New York as a melting pot degenerates into silly, sentimental platitudes about something that doesn't really exist. However, the 7 train, cutting through some of the most ethnically diverse neighborhoods on Earth, is one of the better examples of how very different people can live in close proximity and not kill each other.

People out in Queens don't forget. As recently as this summer, a 7-train straphanger was sporting a faded "Rocker Sucks" shirt, a remnant from that summer when the train and its riders went up against a bigoted loudmouth—and had fun doing it.

The 7 train trundles on day after day, long after its detractors have faded into ignominy and early retirement.


BEST TRAGICALLY COMIC CASE OF
FALSE BLAME

And so began another shitty year… New Year's Eve for us always comes and goes like a riot, dragging a wrecking ball through our highly strung relationships, pilfering our last scraps of sanity like rare Byzantine statuettes from the Iraqi National Museum.

As usual, this year's festivities left us reeling, clutching the pole as our train rocked and rolled, wondering if it was indeed as far back as the second grade that we'd gone so horribly wrong. Knee-deep in a barrel of cheer, we felt a jolt and looked down.

It seemed only natural that our wallet should be gone.

And there you were, standing right beside us, your shaky hands hovering suspiciously. You smelled like Jagermeister, and we were pissed, not about to let you out of our sight.

So we followed you—walked right up and got in your face. We shook our head in disbelief as you offered sputtering, evasive answers. We eventually stopped yelling, but only because you'd backed your way onto the express train and sped off into the underground distance.

We canceled all our credit cards right away.

The next morning, of course, in the sober light of day, we found our bright red wallet sitting on the kitchen table.

Sorry about that.


BEST STOOP TO
BREAK UP ON

PERRY ST. BETW. W. 4TH & BLEECKER STS.

Where Harry dumps Sally. As soon as one person utters those terrible four words, "we need to talk," there's the immediate and pressing need to figure out where to meet. "Come over here" is a bad idea; "go over there" is even worse, and though you'll consider doing it via email or SMS, "we need to talk" is absolutely, undeniably an in-person event.

For such occasions, the bottom of the stoop is our tried-and-true confessional. The ideal spot is situated on a street where pedestrian traffic is sparse, but is within eyesight of a well-traveled sidewalk (distraction for when the tears start). Ideally, a large avenue is within sprinting distance, to aid in quick-escape taxi-flagging, as is a nearby bakery or well-stocked bodega for chocolate and brown-bag bottles of cheap beer.

Our favorite break-up spot is Perry St. between W. 4th and Bleecker streets, where more than 10 stoops mean no waiting, even during the busy, end-of-the-summer break-up season. West 4th is littered with meandering dog walkers, babies in strollers and buff tanned men in tight shirts. Where Perry intersects, you'll find two cafes, Osteria del Sol and Sant Ambroeus where you can sit and write long anguished journal entries over a glass of wine and some comfort foods. Another block and a half away is the legendary Magnolia Bakery, where sweets await, and the Blind Tiger Ale House on Hudson St. is just a few minutes further. Bring a few cupcakes to the bar, work your way through the 24 taps of beer and no one will protest your growls of heart-wrenching pain.

And while it's not a very New York way of dealing with break-up, we won't think less of you if you head over to 7th Ave. and catch a cab or subway home to the comfort of your pillow. We've all been there at least once. If not 20 times.


BEST HOMELESS SERVICES

New York is the only state with mandatory shelter laws. There are more than 50,000 homeless people in New York City. Each night, an average 40,000 people cram the city's shelter facilities; most are families living in temporary shelters, with maybe 10,000 single adults.

Grand Central Neighborhood, which runs Manhattan's largest drop-in center, recently asked its clients for their thoughts on the city's homeless services. Forty-two people offered responses ranging from the normal or expected (as summarized below) to the kind of responses one might expect from the angry and jaded. Best Shelter? Fuck a shelter. Best Holiday Meal? Ain't no fuckin' holiday 4 a homeless nigga.


SURVEY RESULTS

Shelter
Bellevue Men's

Best Public Assistance Office
Job Center, 14th St.

Best Public Bathroom
Grand Central Terminal (Tie for second-place: Port Authority and McDonald's)

Best Foodline/Soup Kitchen
Holy Apostles, 28th St. & 9th Ave.

Best Holiday Meal
Thanksgiving

Best Place to Sleep
The chairs at St. Agnes

Best Free/Cheap Internet Access
Public Library

Best Free/Cheap Health Care
Medicaid

Best Free/Cheap Dentist
NYU School of Dentistry

Best Place to Spend New Year's Eve
Times Square

Best Resource for the Homeless
Coalition for the Homeless

Best Way to Pass Time
Walking around. (Other responses: Meeting people in the same boat, Slow Death, sleeping, reading newspapers, studying, sports, hiking, watching a movie, traveling upstate.)Sleep? Probably your house.

Toby Van Buren is a soon-to-be 65-year-old formerly homeless client of Grand Central Neighborhood, now employed there as a part-time typist and data-entry clerk. He's written numerous articles for their streetpaper, BIGnews.

Best Shelter, Best Drop-in Center I can answer that, but I'd better start off by stating I detest them. I was a street person all the way, from the beginning to the end, for five years. Though I always chose the street over being cooped up indoors, basedon the little experience I have, I'd choose Ward's Island. For the drop-in center, Grand Central Neighborhood—they offer meals, clothing, on-hand staff and have been helpful to me in many ways.

Best Public Bathroom At the 34th St. and Madison Business and Science Library, there's a large bathroom—basically clean—with many stalls and sinks. You just have to be sure you are not seen by security washing more than just your hands and face. Bring a bar of soap and a large cup. Fill it with warm water, and do your body washing in a stall. Show respect for others and leave things clean and orderly. You can even shampoo your hair in a stall, using that cup of warm water with soap or shampoo you may have (the soap dispensers there can be a good source of shampoo), then rinse with toilet water, making sure the toilet has been flushed and is clean. Or, just do a quick rinse job in the sink, dry your hair with the electric hand drier on the wall, again, doing it quickly, not to be noticed by security. Or, just go out with wet hair. It'll eventually dry.

There are many McDonald's in New York with bathrooms, but they're smaller, not as easy to do what you need to do in them. They are at least open later at night, some all night, but you really need to buy something, even just coffee, not just go in and just use the bathroom. This way, you will not be bothered as much by security.

Best Foodline/Soup Kitchen At Holy Apostles at 28th St. and 9th Ave. there's good food—and you can have seconds. They serve Mondays through Fridays. At St. Bart's at 51st St. and Park Ave., there's fair food, three days a week. At St. Peter's at 54th St. and Lexington Ave., they only serve on Tuesdays but it's really good food.

Best Way to Pass Time This is a challenge, especially if you're trying to keep from going out of your mind and becoming too depressed. One thing not to do is nothing, which is easy when you have no money.

Instead, look into yourself and find what your talent is. (You finally have the time you never had before.) For me, it was creative writing. You can buy a notebook that school kids use, a bag of Bic pens and write away. Maybe start a diary of your everyday experiences in this strange life you're now leading. Write down everything, whatever, especially your most inner thoughts.

The thinking itself is a way to pass the time—noticing what's around you, for the first time in your life maybe. Take for example a trip to Central Park—you actually "leave" New York City. I sat for long periods of time there; it became a sanctuary.

Another thing to do is panhandle or collect bottles and cans and with the proceeds go to the movies or the Easy Internet Café.

Best Part of Being Homeless There really is a best part. You have managed to lose everything—including such burdens as old debt. There came a point with me that all I had was what I was wearing—Bermuda shorts, a t-shirt, socks, cheap sneakers, a baseball cap and a watch. Though this was difficult, for the very first time I felt as light as a bird, without a care in the world. You have the opportunity, once having lost everything, to rediscover what's important again. I felt like I was at camp—just for a very, very long time. A real adventure!

I found myself using my imagination. A meal at a big soup kitchen was a mess hall at some hotel. The endless walking? I was on a hike.

The holiday season was the hardest, but since I've always loved the Christmas decorations, lights, the big tree, etc., I embraced it all (even though I became homeless, two days before Christmas 1995). Finally, by Christmas 2000, I got my housing and ever since, I've gotten further and further away from that five-year-long experience. But I've never doubted its worth.

TOBY VAN BUREN


BEST THING YOU DON'T WANT TO HEAR FROM THE GUY NEXT TO YOU ON THE TRAIN

"Hey look—I can just peel my skin right off… Look at that. That ain't right, is it?"


BEST PERVERT
WATCHING

SHEEP MEADOW, CENTRAL PARK

Pervertus erectus. For some, the Meadow is a kind of picnic heaven—a place to hack yourself silly and score shitty weed. Some old hippies we know are always out here, taking long hard tokes from a giant purple bong. When we're in the right mood, we join them.

Also relishing the serenity of this quiet urban haven are the shady exhibitionists. Always comfortable with a crowd, they spread themselves eagle, exposing their most private of scaly, withered parts. Young moms who notice this collect their tots and scatter, leaving behind what's left of the potato salad.

Such are the local fauna in any populated outdoor environment. It's the crafty ones, however, who take us by surprise. They sneak up on us while we work on our tan, sweating away the week's pressure, absorbed in a particularly spine-tingling novella. Staring hard at the page, we find ourselves reading the same sentence over and over, distracted by the pssssssst made by our creepy eager-beaver stalker. While this hiss is impossible to respond to, it is mercifully very easy to ignore.

Over the years, these meadow creeps—also known as perverts—have perfected their non-mating rituals. While these often involve gold chains and heavy doses of hair gel, an overwhelming number of the species relies on skin-tight Speedos to conjure up revulsion in the opposite sex. Scientists studying Central Park's pervert population have found that they need not roam very far from the Meadow—there's ample nourishment in this enclosed habitat.

This year's data describes a population that is far from dying off, as some reported in years past. On the contrary, from our own observations we can conclude that their numbers are on the rise, with one species in particular, the Coked-Up Horny Frat Boy, reaching record numbers. He is best spotted at dusk.



BEST DRUG DEALERS WE WISH WERE STILL AROUND

CARL & JOSE

The dealers fold. Everyone has a favorite Carl and Jose story. One night, as we approached their car, we saw a woman running out. We assumed it was a runner until we realized, "Oh, it's my neighbor"—also scoring.

Or another: A friend had started working in a straight-laced office. One day, around the water cooler, someone said something about Carl and Jose. Suddenly everyone started talking at once: "You mean you know Carl and Jose?" "You mean…?" Yep, everyone had scored from them.

In October, their underling, Michael, said Carl and Jose were at the Yankees' playoffs. "But those tickets are impossible to get," we said. "Well, they have connections high-up in the Yankee organization."

Hmmm…Daryl or Dwight? We never did find out.

Like all high-flyers, Carl and Jose made the mistake of believing they were invincible. Their downfall came after New York magazine ran an article about the resurgence of drugs among the elite and quoted them by first name.


BEST HOME ROBBERY

Barren robbers. For the benefit of our neighbors, we posted our warning in Spanish as well: ÁLos plomeros son ladrones!

The plumbers are thieves!

Come morning, the thieving plumbers were pounding on our door, somehow having sussed us as the responsible party. And boy were they pissed off.

Fuck them. Not six hours earlier, at 2 a.m., we'd arrived home to find our apartment robbed. There was, as they say on Law & Order, no sign of forced entry. The fire- escape-side window was closed, and the only people with keys to our apartment were us and the plumbers, who were repairing a faulty gas lines.

It was a curious thievery, one befitting these idiots who every morning ambled through the building like retards at a petting zoo: They left behind our shiny new Powerbook; they left behind the television. They left behind the boombox and the VCR and $3000 worth of camera equipment.

All they took was our Xbox and the games that were in the closet.

The robbers carefully disconnected the console and disentangled the two controllers from the other cords on the floor—no small feat considering the jumbled state of our tech. They took pains to not disturb the abovementioned laptop, which was sitting next to the Xbox, and they didn't put a single other item out of place. In the closet, they slid four games from the bottom of a stack that boasted a dozen DVDs.

The plumbers, of course, pled innocent. "Must've been someone in the building, man! We'll keep a look-out in the other apartments, man!"

But we know that's bullshit. No one in the building had the opportunity. And a real thief would've at least snagged the laptop.


BEST REASON TO
MOVE TO TORONTO

RANDOM SUBWAY SHOOTINGS

Could you at least wait 'til we're outside? A single random nutjob pulling a pistol and shooting someone on the subway—fine. Big city. Four separate nutjobs doing it within weeks of each other at some of the busiest subway stops in town—not so fine. This summer had us afraid to ride the subways for the first time in our lives. We know the chances of getting shot were minuscule, like winning the lottery, but we couldn't help feeling jittery every time someone stepped on the train who looked a little…odd. (And we do play the lottery, fully expecting to win.)

On the subway, there is nowhere to run or hide. If someone pulled out an AK while the 2 was stalled under the East River, it would be like shooting fish in a very thin barrel. And we'd be lying if we said we haven't had this nightmare several times in the last few months. It's not that we're so afraid of death. We just really, really don't want to get shot on the subway for no reason at all by someone who is never going to be caught.


BEST RESPITE FROM FEARS OF FORCED ENTRY

THE MUTANT JERSEY MOSQUITO ATTACKS!

Incoming!! A friendly neighbor named Yolanda kindly informed us that the previous tenants had moved out after being robbed. In fact, according to her, every apartment in the building (all 16 of 'em!) has been robbed at some point over the years. She urged us to upgrade our flimsy locks, put bars on our bedroom window and invest in a security system.

When we went to bed that night, we were naturally a little uneasy. We chose a lower setting on the air filter that provides soothing white sleep noise, and found ourselves snapping into alertness at every sound. Sleep finally arrived, but it was shallow.

And praise Jesus for that.

Mosquitoes have assaulted us in the night enough that we know what insistent, sleepy itching means. This night, we cursed the blood-sucking bastard's timing with particular bitterness. It was 4 a.m. on a Sunday, and we had to get up early for work. But when an evil whining buzz tickled our ear, confirming the attack, we had no choice but to bolt out of bed, throw on the light and survey the damage.

We gasped in horror. The welt from the bite was the size of a 50-cent piece—and the shape of an octopus. A chill ran through us. Surely, this was a bite of some genetically altered mutant, perhaps an escapee from Plum Island. We began the frantic, obsessive itching, and gazed up and around warily, certain the offender was somewhere.

Turns out he was right behind us, and small and furry—the most nefarious strain. We planned our counter-attack methodically and with secretive nonchalance, but when the September Harper's sailed in for the kill, mutant Jersey mosquito hightailed it—fueled, no doubt, by our top-quality hemoglobin.

We turned on every light, peered into every nook and cranny, shook out the bed linens (their cleverest and most horrifying hiding place), looked high, looked low—to no avail. We donned a hat, a balaclava, did a full-body tea-tree-oil smear and wrapped ourselves tight in the sheet.

At least your average prowler is likely to pass on the apartment where, lights blazing, a crackpot in a balaclava is stumbling around with a cookie in one hand and a rolled-up Harper's in the other, hissing, "Come on out, you little bastard!"



BEST BRONX
MAKE-OUT SPOT

PELHAM BAY PARK

The making in Pelham, 1-2-3. The uptown 6 train starts to empty out by 86th St., where white, fresh-out-of-college Tara Reid look-alikes scurry to their overpriced apartments to apply more makeup and otherwise stare at themselves in the mirror or at people that look like them on reality tv. Which is a shame. Just another 50 minutes north is an oasis in the Bronx called Pelham Bay Park. The park, at more than 2700 acres, is the city's largest. More important, its seclusion and pastoral setting was made for couples to take a stroll, stare at the sky and make out.

For optimal privacy, try the gardens of Hunter's Island, the lonesome sands of Orchard Beach (around dusk) or the magnificent fauna of the Meadow that lies to the south. Or take your date on a hike through the Split Rock trail and secure a spot under the Hutch to take in the traffic or gaze at each other, both of you thinking: How the hell are we going to get back?


BEST REASON YOUR GIRLFRIEND HAS FOR AVOIDING SEX

YOGA CLASS GOT HER STRESSED

You're kidding, right, baby? Every year or so, there's a new dream on the horizon for urban career girls. At first, they used to all just take the yoga classes. Now they all want to teach them. But this is New York City. And everything is a fight to the death. Behind those spiritual epithets and the neo-hippie speak is a girl out to unseat the master. Being that we see the whole world as sketch comedy, we can only imagine as some gourmet vegetarian teacher on a higher pedestal strolls into the studio to give the ambitious girl behind the desk terrible grunt work. They smile at each other, drop words like "lovely," "peaceful" and "fluid" into their conversation, but a cat fight is on the horizon.

"Baby, just challenge her in the studio to a stretch-off. This will let everyone know you're the best and can hold the longest Lotus position."

We see torn Lycra, pulled hair and the one gay teacher who tried to intervene tied up in a chair by turquoise beads. This isn't going to happen, though. Her stress with the master just means you'll be getting laid a lot less. And you thought stretching was supposed to clear the mind.


BEST BUS DRIVER MOST IN NEED OF A KNUCKLE SANDWICH

We'll take the minimum sentence gladly. It's possible he was having a bad day. We were too. It was 23 degrees outside, and the bus was half an hour late. So when the B48 appeared like a wraith, we were ecstatic. We clambered toward the door, holding a sixer of Bud, only to be slapped by a power trip.

"Get that damn beer off my bus or I'm leaving you on this goddamned corner," the acne-scarred driver said.

"Why?" we questioned, shivering in front of the kneeling-bus sign.

"Because those bottles are potential weapons," he said, flexing knuckles inked with jail-quality cross tattoos.

Frostbitten and lacking cab fare, we dumped our freshly bought brew on the street corner. Then we stepped on board and swiped our MetroCard. We took our seat next to the driver and struck up conversation.

"So those bottles are potential weapons, huh?" we asked, making small talk. "Well, what about my fists. You gonna make me cut off my hands?"

Just like the movies, the bus squelched to a stop.

"Are you going to shut up, or make me throw you off the bus?" he asked, stroking his God-fearing fingers. "It sure looks…cold outside," he said, cracking a brown-toothed grin.

We pursed our lips and jammed hands in pockets, daydreaming of the street justice we could mete out in a city not run by a transportation cabal.


BEST BODY OF POISONOUS WATER TO CANOE DOWN

GOWANUS CANAL

Bring Evian. This competition was a close one. What body of New York City water is not poisonous? Our forefathers were so proficient at dumping mercury, toxic industrial runoff and PCBs into rivers, canals and oceans that munching more than two locally caught fish a month is hazardous to our health. Luckily, we hate eating fish something fierce. What we do like is canoeing, though the area's aqua could render us as impotent as a mule.

Nowhere do we love tempting fertility and stretching our sea legs as much as a smelly Brooklyn strip known as the Gowanus Canal. To scratch our canoe itch, we contact the Gowanus Dredgers (gowanuscanal.org) and schedule a journey through idyllic sewage runoff. Formerly South Brooklyn's dumping ground for waste water and Mafia informants, the "Lavender Lake" (so-called because of its stench and Technicolor hue) is loaded with a reported 30 feet of contaminated sludge. That'll make for an army of mutants—and a most peaceful afternoon.

We love canoeing on the Gowanus for precisely the reasons most people don't: the car graveyards and cement plants composing the waterfront. Bring the junk on, we say. Who needs herons, swans and fish when bald tires and junked shopping carts keep us company? Tune out the BQE and F-train rumble and it's as close to nature as we dare—or want—to travel. None but the Purell-hardy venture into the canal, still toxic enough to merit a full-body, post-paddle scrub. For now. The Dredgers are doing their damnedest to cleanse the canal. For the past few seasons, jellyfish and crabs have plumbed the poisonous depths. We treasure our DNA too much to follow.


BEST FASHION NO-NO

MUSHROOM HAIRCUT

Beyond the bowl. We hadn't seen anything like it since our seventh-grade class photo. You know who you are. You were riding the 6 train on Wednesday, Sept. 8 around noon, and you got off at the 51st St. stop. You were fighting with your girlfriend. She was probably berating you for your phallic-shaped mop.

Please do us all a favor, leave that do for Prince Valiant and the Backstreet Boys, and crawl back to whatever hole you emerged from.


BEST MOVIE PALACE

LOEWS 175TH ST. THEATER

Now Rev. Ike's Christ United Church

4140 B'way (betw. 175th & 176th Sts.)
212-568-6700

Picture perfect. In the days before television, multiplexes and Netflix, going to the movies was a big deal. New Yorkers dressed for a night at the bijou as if they were attending church, a fitting response to theaters that looked like temples. Built mostly between the mid-teens and late 1920s, these "movie palaces" provided an atmosphere of escapism for the lavish tales of swashbucklers, Arabian sheiks and princely romance that populated silent movies. Reflecting the era's fascination with Orientalism and the Far East, design elements in the theaters often drew upon Chinese, Moorish, Indian or Egyptian motifs.

The Loews 175th Street Theater—one of the most remarkably ornate palaces—boldly used all four of these, throwing in some Mayan and Aztec for good measure. It was over the top, but nothing less would have been expected from architect Thomas Lamb, the Cecil B. DeMille of theater designers. Loews billed the 175th as the last of its five New York "Wonder Theatres," and everything about it—from the seven-story organ to the monumental staircase—was crafted to inspire awe. Boasting close to 3500 seats, it was one of the largest movie houses in the U.S. when it opened on February 15, 1930.

Decadence on such a grand scale was hard to maintain, structurally and financially, and by the Depression no one could afford to build such grandiosities (Radio City notwithstanding). Many of New York's palaces, including the Roxy, Capitol and Strand, were razed or allowed to die slowly, drawn and quartered in the "cinema 1-2-3-4" style before getting bulldozed for office buildings. The Loews 175th fared better: Two years after its closing in 1967, the theater was purchased by evangelist Dr. Frederick Eikerenkoetter—better known as Rev. Ike, "The Success and Prosperity Preacher."

Regardless of what you think of Rev. Ike and his unabashed commercialism (sample quote: "The lack of money is the root of all evil") there's no doubting that he's kept the Loews 175th in glorious shape. It's a shame more New Yorkers don't know about this paean to Roaring 20s excess. Fortunately, you can visit during one of Ike's weekly services on Sundays at 2:45 p.m. If that sounds like a bit much, try attending one of the Latin or gospel concerts the building often hosts. While you're there, reflect upon Thomas Lamb's stated desire for the theater to cast "a spell of the mysterious and, to the Occidental mind, of the exceptional."


BEST MOM

THE WOMAN UPSTAIRS

What a mother. She really seems to know what she's doing. Whether it's giving such wise advice as screaming, "Pick up your fucking shoes or I'm gonna whack you!" or words of encouragement like, "You are such a freakin' moron. Shut the hell up!" she's the shining example of motherhood.

Her kids' actions, like poking that stray cat for hours or throwing rocks at other kids at school, just show how worthwhile her mothering has been. We especially enjoy the smacks the kids get at the local grocery store for being "retarded" or "smart-ass."

She's not like those annoying yuppie moms who just coddle their kids with books and tutors and ballet classes. No, she really knows how to toughen her kids up for the real world.

If only our own mother had taken such a keen interest in our upbringing, maybe we would have amounted to more.

Way to go, upstairs mom.


BEST FAUX ATTEMPT
AT WORK

DOORMAN AT PORT AUTHORITY'S
SUBWAY ENTRANCE

Thanks for nothing. When we first spied him four years ago, we were charmed. "Oh, look at the kindly old man holding open the door for weary Port Authority passengers," we thought, making sure we tipped him a quarter when making our monthly New Jersey pilgrimage to visit our aunt. Cane in one hand, door in the other, he'd stand there, a gently wrinkled African-American man nodding to young and old, Puerto Rican and Armenian alike, wishing everyone well on their journeys to wherever. A real upstanding gent, we thought.

That is, until the day he didn't show up at the bus station.

And the door still stayed open.

On its own.

Our soft spot was bamboozled.

But we give him credit. While too many itinerants are content to sit on their duff and the dole, this gent took the path of least resistance toward personal welfare. If he had to work, why not do the least work possible? Hell, unlike saps trolling the subway for commuters' pity change, this man walked nowhere, much less talked. He rested his paw on the door, graciously accepting handouts for his tireless—and sweatless—job. Little work, lots of money—kind of like temping, right?


BEST IN-STORE ADVICE

DVD EXPLOSION

557 8th Ave. (betw. 37th & 38th Sts.), 212-239-0469

Lube and enlightenment. We're shopping at the innocently named DVD Explosion for the usual porn, when we suddenly find ourselves feeling enlightened and better about our miserable existence. The reason why is scrawled on the shelving that separates a row of bondage DVDs from a selection of anal extravaganzas.

"Take a little time," says the graffiti, "to do whatever it is to make you happy."

We're so inspired that we head straight for the private booths.


BEST NEW SELLING POINT FOR CANDY
ON THE SUBWAY

THE TRUTH

One Starburst, please. "Hello ladies and gentleman, can I please have your attention. My name is Jamal. And no, I'm not here trying to raise money to buy new basketball uniforms for my school team. I'm just a kid tryin' to earn a few extra dollas. I got M&M peanut candies and Starbursts fruit chews for one dolla. Take the street out of the kid and the kid out of the street. Thanks. And God bless."


BEST FREE GAMES AND MONKEY-AID

MONKEY ROYALE

175 2nd Ave. (betw. 11th & 12th Sts.), 212-260-1620

Two words: Nutella, banana. "They got Wi-Fi, we got Pinball" reads the coffeehouse mantra of Monkey Royale, a relatively new addition to the East Village. We were riding past when the foosball table caught our eye through the window. The guy behind the bar, a few espressos into his day, picked up a microphone and said "C'mon in." Generally, that would be a sign to stay away, but with promises of pinball and foosball, well...

With muted wallpaper and all-counter seating, the place is charming in the style of 50s diners and British-schoolboy bedrooms. The fare is simple: egg salad, chicken salad and tuna salad sandwiches are all under $5. For something sweeter, there are mini doughnuts or the house special sandwich: The Monkey Royale is three layers of nutella, banana and peanut butter on toasted bread.

The coffee is fresh and tasty with no Starbucks-style frills, though it's a bit costly at $2 for a cup of regular. But then, there is unlimited free foosball. And pinball (they leave out a cup of dimes to feed the machine). There's an optional $1 donation to help monkeys in need at the Bronx Zoo: Make a donation, and they'll ring the monkey bell, the sort usually reserved for big tippers in bars.

While the ambience borders on kitsch, the old-fashioned "glad to see ya" welcome is genuine. An egg salad sandwich and a face-off of little footballers on rods really is the prescription for a simple good time.

BEST AL FRESCO
BOOKSELLER

THE BUM ON EASTERN PARKWAY

Got any Hardy Boys? New York's streets are filled with sidewalk book peddlers, from the men pushing Xeroxed screenplays on the Upper West Side to the perv who sold back issues of yesteryear's Playboy and Juggs on Astor Pl., but the bearded schlub on Eastern Parkway gets our vote. He sells nothing but garbage pickings.

Mysteries of the Ancient Americas, A Wizard of Earthsea, Introduction to Greek Philosophy, a plethora of romance books with Fabio gracing the cover, all in the shadow of Prospect Park. That's why we love him, the hardscrabble hobo hawking discarded tomes for pennies. On our Saturday walks to the Grand Army Plaza green market, we stop and browse his latest treasures, secretly hoping for a gem. With his toothless smile and gnarled index finger, he beckons us to his books. The volumes, rescued from the trashcans and stoops of the adjacent neighborhoods of Park Slope and Prospect Heights, are tossed willy-nilly on top of urine-soaked, shit-stained sheets, a bottle of Granddad comfortably resting near his cash cow.

Other passersby barely deign to glance at the Brooklyn bum and his stash. Not us. Once we found a first edition of Gabriel Garcia Marquez's In Evil Hour. We looked inside: 99 cents. "How much for this book?" we asked. "One-fifty," the bookmonger replied. We weren't gonna have any of that, and haggled until we bought it for a buck.


BEST COMEUPPANCE

L-TRAIN SHUTDOWNS

B-b-b-but Death Cab is going onstage soon. On the whole, we're avid proponents of schadenfreude. We revel in George Bush's pretzel-choking and garbled syntax. Tiger Woods hooking a nine-iron into the water hazard. Cynthia Cotts getting the media-crit cane. Which is why we're so elated that the L train has so regularly held Billyburgers hostage with weekend shutdowns.

We listen to our friends complain: "The car services are charging $30 to go to Manhattan!" "Where am I going to buy groceries?" "How can I get to work?" A pain in the ass, yes, and we couldn't be happier. How often have we listened to you extol loft-living? Or the fact that you're "just a few minutes from Manhattan"? And your excellent bars and restaurants, restaurants and bars, and bars and restaurants?

You'd better like eating at Planet Thailand and drinking at Red & Black, because your MetroCard just got trumped. Remember when you laughed at us for living in downtown Brooklyn, pooh-poohing our six-stop city access? "I'm only 10 minutes to Union Square," you said, fixing your $50 Mousey Brown coif. Who's laughing now? You'd better lace up those Air Force 1s and start walking. The bridge is waiting.


BEST PLAYGROUND
TO WATCH SPOILED RICH KIDS

5TH AVE. & 67TH ST.

Mommy's little monsters. The Ancient Playground (a playground actually modeled after ancient Egypt) directly north of the Met may be a hotspot for moms in the know, but it's sometimes filled with museum-tourist riffraff and even—God forbid—public school kids. The better choice is at 5th Ave. and 67th St., and it looks conspicuously like a Zen garden.

Upon visiting the playground for the first time, one often sees a remarkably attractive homeless man sleeping on the bench outside, a man who seems himself a child of Park Ave., with the high cheekbones and lithe frame of a runway model. Enter the playground and find a landscaped space dotted with small wooden pavilions. The slide is a vast expanse of granite set into a hill (beautiful, but it doesn't make for an exhilarating ride; the savvier nannies bring cardboard for their kids to slide on). There is no red or blue plastic to speak of.

What we find more fascinating than the amount of money spent on building the place are the people within its walls. It is an excellent place, of course, to spot people like Harrison Ford knee-deep in the sandbox, but even those who do not inspire immediate name recognition can put on a good show. They are, for example, great fans of the euphemism. When we once informed a bratty little kid that his nanny was looking for him, he responded, "That's not my nanny. That's my French teacher!"

The nanny-to-parent ratio is about three-to-one, but the neurotic micromanaging of the parents and their replicant offspring is better than a Woody Allen movie.


BEST SUBWAY
DIRECTIONS

So it's an express? We were waiting for a friend on the Broadway-Lafayette platform. We were also watching a disheveled old man pacing back and forth at the bottom of the stairs, muttering to himself. He'd been doing this for as long as we'd been waiting. Trains would come and go, but he paced and muttered on, staring at his feet, showing no interest in getting on any of them.

A V train pulled into the station, and as it did, an NYU student came galloping down the steps, backpack flapping. Before charging through the open doors onto the half-empty train, the kid paused by the old man.

"Hey," he asked hurriedly, "is this an F or a V?" (It's best to make sure at that station.)

The man said nothing, concentrating on his pacing.

"Excuse me?" the kid tried again, his eyes darting at the doors, which could close at any second. "This train—is it an F?"

Again the man ignored him.

"Please? Sir? Does this train go to Brooklyn?"

The old man finally stopped and looked up, staring at the kid for a second before screaming, "Raaahhhhhh!"


BEST ADVICE

Suicide is Painless. It was early, and 23rd St. was pretty empty except for ourselves and the couple. She was letting her dog take a dump in the street as she chatted with the guy on the sidewalk. We didn't even realize they were arguing until we passed them.

"All right, fine," she said in the raspy, nasal voice of a woman who's been on the skids for a long time, "Go ahead then. Shoot yourself. Yeah, just shoot yourself. Ya know why? 'Cause it'd be funny, that's why!"


BEST PUBLIC URINAL

THE CHILD-MOLESTER MEMORIAL

Let 'er rip. Looking for a place to piss, but not willing to soil any part of this fine city? There's one small area that's always in need of being besmirched. Go to the famed Strawberry Fields in Central Park and find the small plaque honoring the despicable Michael "Irish" McMorrow. He's the miserable drunk who—as far as we're concerned, and don't you fucking lie to us, oh grieving friends and family—was trying to have sex with 15-year-old Daphne Abdela back in 1997. In a nice try at cleaning up New York, Daphne's young pal Christopher Vasquez killed the creep, and she helped dispose of the body. Too bad they didn't do that great of a job. Daphne's out of jail now, and we certainly hope she goes on to have a pleasant life. McMorrow's presence continues to offend, though. Heck, let's all line up to take a piss on that plaque—and we'll certainly understand if Yoko Ono wants to be first.


BEST REASON TO
MOVE OUT OF STATE

GUITAR BOY

Three chords and the annoyance. Somewhere in Williamsburg along the polluted stretch of Metropolitan Ave. between the East River and the BQE, near a small median known to area dog-walkers as the "triangle of poo," resides a paunchy twenty-something with thinning hair who's predisposed to pastel Izods. His mother gave him a name, but, inspired by 90s Brit-pop masters Heavenly, we call him Cool Guitar Boy.

Until a couple years ago, everyone on our block had lived there for five to 10 years, and most of our neighbors were fellow queer artists. We watered each other's plants, fetched soda and crackers during flu season—hell, even fed a string of extension cords from our apartment to that of our downstairs next-door neighbor when a fire broke out and the crap-ass landlord didn't restore electricity for days (five years later, the hole in the ceiling's still there). For a long time, we enjoyed a genuine sense of community.

Guitar Boy moved in over the summer of 2003. He seemed innocuous enough at first; we said hello a few times and answered his questions about neighborhood safety. Then one evening, a curious, deafening sound bludgeoned our fragile sleep. The very floors and walls shook. It wasn't music—that was for darn sure. Whatever it was, it went on for hours. We eventually traced the din to Guitar Boy, his guitar and, most woefully, his amplifier, and we talked to him about the noise, sure that he'd be reasonable. We work primarily from home, and his "guitar studio" was below our office. He apologized, but over time, the noise our boyfriend dubbed his "insipid noodling" continued. The hateful strum, strum, strum never got any closer to being music. Maybe he was taking lessons. If so, he should get a refund.

Conflict agitates our irritable bowel syndrome, so we abandoned our home office, deciding to take advantage of the good light and pretty view from our living room and work out of there instead. Finally, though, it was 1:30 a.m. on a Tuesday night and the insipid noodling had our walls and floors a-quiver. We had little choice but to knock on his door.

"Guitar Boy," we said, "we have to get up early for work."

In response, the paunchy brat stamped his foot and huffed, "We're trying to work, too, you know!"

And slammed the door.

Not long after, our landlord set the house on fire after his weeding-with-a-blowtorch endeavor went ever so slightly awry. The other downstairs neighbor got in the habit of chain-smoking on the porch below our living-room window. Crazy landlord put a second barking pit bull in the backyard. Our kitchen ceiling started to fall down.

It was then that we found ourselves at Google, typing "Jersey City real estate."


BEST MINIATURE PARK

BROOKLYN BRIDGE PARK

The grass is real. New York has myriad large, world-famous parks: the pair of Olmsted-designed behemoths, Central Park and Prospect Park; Riverside Park; Fort Tryon Park, where the Cloisters sit. Among the smaller offerings, though, you can't beat the Brooklyn Bridge Park, a tiny jewel nestled between the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges in Dumbo.

The park has an air of coziness created by the frenzy surrounding it on all sides: racing traffic on the bridges, boats shooting down the East River, the enormous skyscrapers that provide a stunning backdrop. Lie on the grassy hill and take it all in, have a picnic on one of the park tables, or dip your toe into the water—the river's tide washes up gently on a sandy mini-beach at the park's edge.

Best of all is the park's southeast corner, where a former tobacco warehouse is remembered by just its walls. A fascinating relic of New York City's tobacco-producing past, the warehouse is open to the sky and is a spectacular spot for a crisp autumn afternoon. Wedding planners take note: The warehouse is available on weekends for weddings and other parties, as is private use of the park after hours.


BEST STOMACH FLU

ROTAVIRUS

And a rat emerged from the gutters of Park Slope… Our friend was home alone with her infant, while we had her husband out and about, whooping it up near Times Square. Then, the call came in—and he was gone, off to the hospital on Atlantic and Hicks in Brooklyn. The next day, we learned that their child had had a grand mal seizure—eyes rolled back, face purply blue, the whole heart-stopping nine yards. The doctors did a CAT scan and a spinal tap, and though our friends each had a few new gray hairs, the kid would be okay.

The culprit was rotavirus, a bad-ass motherfucker that cut a swath through Brooklyn's yuppie-baby population earlier this year—as evidenced by the crowd of wee tots we saw at the hospital, all wearing mini hospital gowns and plugged into IVs. Our dear little friend was a real heartbreaker—glued to the Teletubbies on a portable DVD player, covered in bruises from needle pricks. Her spinal-tap owie made us queasy.

The second heartbreak came about 48 hours later, however, when we doubled over with stomach cramps and experienced the worst nausea we'd had in almost 20 years. Violence and grossness related to our nether-region soon commenced—that is, we had really gnarly diarrhea—but the nausea was worse. (At least something happens with the shits.) For nearly a week, we were on a rollicking adventure with nausea, but we never once puked. Apparently, we were the exception: Rotavirus usually attacks both ends.

For more than a week, we couldn't bear to touch food, yet the shit maelstrom—and about eight pounds—continued to storm forth. When the ordeal was over, our size-six clothes hung off a newly skeletal ass.

So if you're trying to lose weight, forget counting your carbs. Our buddy rotavirus can kick the crap out of any wimpy Atkins Diet. Instead, have a cuddle with a rotavirus-infected youngster. (Our little pal caught it again last week, so it's going around.) You'll puke and shit your way to a brand-new you in no time.


BEST OFFICE THEFT

.11 LITER OF JAGERMEISTER

Brown gold. It had been a rough day, not unlike any other rough day—just worse. A drink was called for. We crossed our fingers and dragged ourselves to the micro-fridge, hoping to find a stray bottle of beer. Nothing.

But what's this? Ah, yes, jammed in the tiny freezer compartment: the mickey of Jagermeister that a friend brought back from Germany. We grabbed two cups, called over a likewise-bedraggled coworker and poured two fat shots. We noticed that the liquor looked less viscous than usual, but our eyes could be playing tricks. Rough day and all.

Cheers!

Cheers!

And down went the shot.

Of coffee.

To the skint bastard who stole our rainbow: You suck.

Why replace the liquor? Why not just empty the bottle, then throw it out?

Why? Why? Why?!?

Again: You suck.

And you owe us a tiny bottle of Jagermeister.

Drop it in our mailbox. No questions asked.


BEST THING YOU
DON'T WANT TO HEAR ON THE ELEVATOR

Drop dead. The day last August when it was reported that a man had died after the elevator he was riding slammed to the top of the shaft, we stepped aboard the elevator here at the office, on our way down to get some lunch.

There was one other person on the elevator, a tall Jamaican woman we'd never seen before. After the doors closed and we began to descend, she asked, completely out of the blue, "Do you suppose if he'd laid down on the floor, he would've lived?"


BEST CELLPHONE MOMENT

At least she got the phone back. On the afternoon of Feb. 10, 19-year-old Lina Villegas was waiting for a V train at the Grand Ave. station in Elmhurst, Queens. In recent days, she'd started a new job and, presumably to celebrate, she bought a new cellphone. On this day, she stood on the platform admiring her new toy.

When the phone slipped from her hands and clattered down to the tracks, Villegas did what any smart young go-getter would do: She hopped down onto the tracks to retrieve it. After all, that was her connection with the world, a sign to all those around her that she was important and had important things to talk about, no matter where she happened to be.

Whether Villegas knew the train was coming before she hopped on the tracks, nobody can say for sure. Certainly not Villegas.

In the days that followed, we found ourselves asking the same question time and again: "Why can't more people drop their cellphones on the subway tracks?"


BEST EPICENTER OF ASS

THE UNION SQUARE STEPS

Ain't no question, son. There are times when it's a little thin, like in the early afternoon on a Friday. But in general, especially when it's warm out, if you want to be at the place where the classiest and best-looking people in the world are advertising themselves to the world, you go to Union Square. There's a steady stream of girls and boys from NYU, which of course houses the Most Outrageous Collection of Attractive Youngsters Ever Assembled on God's Green Earth, as well as plenty of Asians who clearly took classes on how to dress hot. You won't find us there much because we're usually busy. But when we walk through, we always slow our pace just a little.


BEST AIRPORT TO MAKE YOU WISH YOU WERE AT LAGUARDIA

NEWARK INTERNATIONAL

Eighteenth Amendment, now boarding. We've been flying our entire lives. As a kid, we loved take-offs more than anything. But somewhere around age 20, we started to get a little nervous during the 15 minutes or so between the runway and the "bing" that meant the seatbelt light had gone off. Maybe it's because we learned it's during the ascent that most crashes occur, or maybe we just started thinking too much about a gigantic hunk of steel propelling itself upward 30,000 feet and staying there.

We never stopped flying, we just started to drink a bit before boarding. We'll swallow a pill if we have it, but usually a stiff one or two is enough to relax the nerves and make us a little sleepy as the plane's tires leave the ground. Over the years, we've come to depend on this little pre-flight ritual. And during a lifetime of frequent air travel, finding a place to enjoy these drinks has never been a problem.

Until we flew out of Newark one Saturday morning in July.

With half an hour until boarding, we hit an airport restaurant with a bar visible from outside.

"Bloody Mary, please," we said.

"I'm sorry, the bar doesn't open until one," replied the waitress.

"What do you mean?"

"We don't serve alcohol until one."

"But I see the bar right there."

"I'm sorry, sir. We can't serve until one."

"Okay, can you direct me to a place where I might be able to get a drink?"

"I don't think anything is open right now, but you can try."

Lo and behold, she was right. It was impossible to get a drink at an international airport just minutes from New York City. Not only was the place a complete mess, replete with unreliable shuttle service to the train station, but it was dry on a Saturday morning—the first dry airport we'd ever encountered. You could buy fucking sushi at dawn—but no booze until one.

Left with no choice, we boarded our plane stone-cold sober. Sure enough, take-off was more nerve-rattling than it had been in years. By the time the stewardesses came around with drinks, we no longer needed one.


BEST SIGNAGE

PHIL'S STATIONERY

9 E. 47th St. (betw. Madison & 5th Aves.) 212-688-4144

Two Underwoods, please. Phil's Stationery looks like it was plucked from 1960 and brought back as a happy reminder of a time when selling even business supplies was glamorous. The big plastic stars twinkle with passion, and the dramatic swoop of the "Phil's" lettering declares that you're dealing with a proprietor who has a real sense of pride. Don't think you're dealing with any lame retro signage, either. Phil's proudly advertises that they provide "Zerox copies"—which is just the way an innocent sign guy would've spelled it way back when.


BEST SUICIDE

ANN YORK

Encore! You could hardly turn around this year without hearing about another public suicide. Spalding Gray presented You'll Miss Me When I'm Gone, a new one-man show aboard the Staten Island ferry. A kid paused in the lobby of a housing project just long enough to blow his brains out for the security cameras, ensuring that the record of his final moments would be passed around the internet for all of eternity. NYU students seemed to be dropping like overripe fruit both inside and outside of tall buildings everywhere. And there were more subway jumpers than you could shake a stick at.

But as far as suicides that blend tragedy, comedy and pure showmanship are concerned, no one (at least this year) could top 77-year-old Ann York.

Maybe it makes sense—York was a former circus contortionist and a one-time Broadway showgirl, appearing in such musicals as Almost Crazy. She clearly had show biz in her blood—and early last May her blood was all over the sidewalk of E. 57th St.

In her later years, long after retiring from the stage, York had been a professional dogwalker. But as arthritis crippled her feet and legs, she was forced to give that up as well. She became a bitter recluse, according to neighbors in her East Side apartment building. "She was not very friendly," one of them said of the late York. "She complained a lot."

Well, he won't have to listen to her complain anymore. At about 9:30 one bright, spring morning, York set up a stepladder next to the window of her 17th-floor apartment. She then opened the window and hurled her much-hated aluminum cane to the street below, nearly striking one passer-by and prompting several others to look up. Then, with the eager eyes of an audience upon her again, she took her final bow.


BEST TIME-TRAVEL

OLDE GOOD THINGS

124 W. 24th St. (betw. 6th & 7th Aves.)
212-989-8401

Return of the century. It was our favorite kind of New York Sunday. We met a friend for brunch at Orlin on St. Marks, where on rare occasion we'll risk dairy-allergy hell for their delectable goat-cheese and tomato omelette. Belly warm and happy, we walked and talked ourselves all the way to Chelsea. On 24th off of 6th, we looked up and found ourselves in front of Olde Good Things. Intrigued by the old, good-looking things we spied through the plate-glass window, we entered. And didn't come out for two solid hours.

Olde Good Things is a group of architecturologists who salvage beautiful pieces of buildings slated for demolition, and otherwise scavenge bits of architectural intrigue for their growing body of stores. We found stately mirrors, mantels, columns, all manner of antique furniture, tapestries, ceramics, ancient photos and postcards. Sometimes, riffling through photos of people and families from other eras throws us into a funk ("All those people, all those lives, where are they now?") but here, it was irresistible. We journeyed back to 19th- and early-20th-century England, Africa, France and Italy as we pored over the black and white images strewn across imposing hand-carved bureaus. We forgot the time in the basement's free-for-all of ceramic tile, the odd medicine chest, endless drawers of hooks, knobs and other domestically useful bits.

For so much treasure in such a neighborhood, we can almost forgive OGT the creepy Bible quotation and their offer to "discuss this with you anytime" tucked in the "locations" section of their website.


BEST RED-LIGHT
DISTRICT

QUEENS PLAZA, LONG ISLAND CITY

Bring lots of single bills. Trying to find the train back from a warehouse party on a Saturday night of this past year, we took a stroll through the Queens Plaza vicinity and made a surprising discovery, namely that a lot of the strip clubs and smut shops that were shaken out of Midtown seem to have landed in the Long Island City vicinity. We cruised through the post-industrial neighborhood past notorious strip bar CityScapes on the way to the subway stop, then realized that there were still a couple more clubs within easy walking distance—plus some girls on the street who looked like they were, um, working.

The vibe was one part Grand Theft Auto III, one part outer-borough shabby (our favorite esthetic, by the way) and one part the Times Square of old, though not so much the garish porn-carnival atmosphere as the unmistakable seediness of sex